Electrical motor help (yes, I've searched)

[FredWanaker]

This is the closest that I found but there are no guarantees. Don't use it unless it seems right. I don't want to be responsible for smoked windings or a fire.

Wiring help needed for a 1-phase 220v reversing puzzle - South Bend Mill

This seems the most likely place to ask this, but please feel free to re-direct if I have it wrong... I have a problem re-constructing the wiring for an old South Bend Mill. It’s wired for 220, single phase. I can’t find a wiring diagram that identifies the 6 leads to the GE motor. When I...

www.practicalmachinist.com

followed with a comment that says sample single phase 230V diagram:

It runs! Both F and R.

1 -> Green -> T1 in control box
4 -> White -> T3 in control box
6 -> Starter cap lead 1
Starter cap lead 2 -> Black (from control box)

2 -->
3 ----> wired together
5 -->

I really don't understand it, but somehow the start circuit is being energized from the control box correctly to start the motor F and R.

Thanks for your help! Got it it running with no sparks whatsoever even...

 

[Bert_]

I am working on it.

https://imgur.com/a/r8axw

4 wire motor similar of same https://www.practicalmachinist.com/...e-motor-furnas-forward-reverse-switch-338276/

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/attachments/f25/130911d1424220264-need-help-wiring-motor-drum-switch-wiringdiagram-rev1-sb-10l-c50b50300.jpg

Need help wiring motor drum switch

I'm stumped, I'm not an electrician, and for the record I have tried looking this up and figuring it out on my own, I've tried a few combinations and still no luck, at most the motor will buzz and the spindle will want to turn but won't, so here's a photo of the sticker on the motor, and of the...

www.practicalmachinist.com

still working on it

This is the closest that I found but there are no guarantees. Don't use it unless it seems right. I don't want to be responsible for smoked windings or a fire.

Wiring help needed for a 1-phase 220v reversing puzzle - South Bend Mill

This seems the most likely place to ask this, but please feel free to re-direct if I have it wrong... I have a problem re-constructing the wiring for an old South Bend Mill. It’s wired for 220, single phase. I can’t find a wiring diagram that identifies the 6 leads to the GE motor. When I...

www.practicalmachinist.com

followed with a comment that says sample single phase 230V diagram:

Let's just ignore all this until we find out if the motor even works.

 

[Bert_]

If you're still measuring 2.4-2.7 ohms across 1-3 and 2-4, it HAS to hum when you plug it in. It has no choice. 2.4 ohms @ 120v will result in 50A of current. If you have 50A of current flowing through a coil, you WILL know about it. Either through it humming or smoke and fire erupting from somewhere after a few seconds.

I'm kind of on the same page as this.

Can the Op confirm that you have connected L1-1,2 and L2-3&4. Possibly L1-1,4 and L2-3,2.

It really should at least hum either way.

 

[dogdog]

Op just really have a regular old ac induction motor with capacitor start. That post from response 5 or 6 will absolutely help you ( the one with link to wood gear.ca) . You just have to sit down and identify your run coils and your start coil and verify your centrifugal switch is proper. Then you can wire it what ever way you wanted it to work and voltage. Just keep in mind that some motor design for certain rotation only will have some wires burry into the windings.

 

[DenisG]

99% of articles talk about single rotation motors, as does that one. But thanks anyway.
I want to admit that this old motor was full of metal chips due to the previous owner apparently using an air hose to clean off this lathe. I also used air to dislodge a handful of chips. I'm sure I managed to short it out.

I have no choice but to replace it. Besides, no one seems to understand these old motors. I don't, so it's hitting the scrap pile.

Not sure what you mean by single rotation motors. The link that I gave shows how you can reverse rotation on th

 

[FredWanaker]

I thought this image I posted earlier from Practical Machinist had the best chances of helping because the guy also posted that following it his motor worked. 120V wiring is all he posted. It is for a GE motor in a Southbend Lathe mid 40's.

 

[Zeke]

There seems to be a solution here somewhere. I have to put back together the motor after breaking it apart for pics that I thought would be of no help whatsoever. Proof in point.

Regarding the diagram ^^^^ if I assume my t-6 is in fact your t-8 shown, I can try it. Interestingly, that is how my original neutral was wired and yet non of the videos I have seen have the neutral in that position. Most schematics confuse me. The ones that show the the paths switched either way are useless to me. The one above I can read.

Just to verify for the switch, where L-2 is attached (lets call that No, 6 terminal with the opposite No. 5, and so on going back and forth with 3 where T-8 is, etc.) makes contact with No. 5 in both F and R positions. So Nos5 & 6 are always connected to the wall unless the circuit is broken with the switch in the 'off' position.

Since Positions 5 and6 are always Neutral, regardless of handle position (unless centered in the 'off' position), are there any conflicts (shorts)?

OK, I wrote all of this and realized I wasn't looking at the Furnace diagram. On mine. opposite the handle end, the bottom 2 terminals make contact in either F or R. So, not the same.

Still good?

 

[FredWanaker]

I am not a motor guy although I have replaced some, and built/wound a GE motor in high school. That was a long time ago. In the diagram I found online, It looks like with just the motor and no switch involved, 120V forward is L1 to T1 & T6 (they have 8) and L2 to T5 & T4. T2 & T4 are jumpered together. T3 and T1 are jumpered together. The current would flow from L1 thru T1 & T3 to L2 thru T2 and T4. The start windings would run thru T6 (8) to the Cent switch thru the start windings to T5.

I think to see if this is my motor, with no wires connected or jumpered, I would run an ohm meter from T6 (8) to one side of the cent switch in the open position to be sure that it has no continuity anywhere else when the switch is open. If so that would confirm that T6 (8) is indeed one side of the Cent switch.

Then I would close the switch and see if now I have continuity to T5 and nothing else. That would prove that T5 and T6 are indeed the start windings.

Next I would verify that T1 & T2 have continuity to nothing else,

and that T3 and T4 have continuity to nothing else.

Then maybe I might be willing to try it in 120V. If that works I would then see the post from the fellow who explains how to convert a 120V motor to 220 and test that. Then I would consider adding in the drum switch.

Bert can come along and confirm this logic.

 

[Zeke]

To quote Merle Haggard, "I'm right back where I started from again."

Wiring per the highlighted diagram (thank you) I get the motor running definitely in one direction albeit slowly and I'm not able to wrap a cord around the shaft to try and increase the RPM so that it will run full speed. Nothing seems to be wrong so I might as well buy a cap if I can find one.

Since I have learned that an AC cap has no polarity, one of my worries is no more. So, new question: a 2" dia cap would fit the housing nicely. All the caps I have seen so far are much smaller, so what do I do, stuff it with cotton?

 

[Bert_]

Can the Op confirm that you have connected L1-1,2 and L2-3&4. Possibly L1-1,4 and L2-3,2.

It really should at least hum either way.

Really would like to get confirmation that you have tested these connections.

 

[Zeke]

I know this is getting old but I appreciate members' patience. Here's the latest: the cap discharges with a small spark, so at least it's not open and allowing current. I did manage to wrap a cord around the pulley (had to reinstall that due to removal of rotor) and pulled with the direction that the motor rotated.

I think now there is something to what a poster said about the coils working against one another. As I pulled the cord, the motor did not free up any. In fact, the opposite, it wanted to return to my guess of 100 RPM. So it fought back. Just thought I'd add that back. As a complete newbie to motors, my logic tells me that T5 and 6 should not be connected to the coil circuits at the same time.

Something tells me I need the switch to make this go. If only my switch jived with the diagram in post #46. I can figure it out in time. I'm very spatial but not very good at abstract.

 

[Zeke]

Really would like to get confirmation that you have tested these connections.

"connected L1-1,2 and L2-3&4.: yes, but maybe not adding in only #4 Possibly L1-1,4 and L2-3,2. Again, probably yes, but I didn't write it down. Anything that didn't get a reaction was just left forgotten.

IOW, anything suggested here has been tried.

 

[FredWanaker]

does t5 and t6 go to the starting coil? That is really easy to check. with the cent switch open there should be no continuity then when the switch is closed there should be continuity.

In the diagram that was provided by the practical machinist, the cap is part of the circuit when the cent switch is closed. As soon as the motor gets up to speed it drops out as the cent switch opens the circuit.

You need to verify that

1) you are presently using 120V not 240V
2) that T5 and T6 only have continuity when the cent switch is closed. If they have continuity all the time or not at all then the wiring diagram may not be your motor.

 

[American Locomotive]

If the motor is fighting back and going back down to a slow speed, it sounds like you have the main windings in anti-parallel.

Take Fred's diagram, and do the following changes:

Tie T1 & T4 together
Tie T2 & T3 together

Apply power to those pairs, and give the motor a pull with a rope.

 

[Zeke]

I just now happened to see some very small numbers on the "split phase" diagram on the inside of the switch cover. I can only assume from this that 2,3 are tied together. And that should do it. T-4 does not connect to the middle terminal between 1 and 5 according to the numbers noted. In view of all the welcomed comments and theories, does this diagram make sense? There were a few suggestions that T-1 & 4 were the way to go for the run coil and maybe that 5 & 6 were the start coil, but doing these configurations on the bench w/o the switch never got the motor going. That is confusing to me, for sure.

Once I get the motor back on the lathe countershaft and wired as planned with this info, I will report back. If it doesn't work, that will be the frustration of all frustrations. Thanks a million so far. What I learned is labeling is not something to be done w/o extreme care. I should have videoed the process. Next time....

 

[dogdog]

Split phase motor does not have start coil both are run coils and designs for one voltage only without any centrifugal switch. The capacitor shift the current phase on one of the coil to make it rotate in the direction desired. Direction dependents on which coil you connected the capacitor inline to. There is a wiki on this that explains it. “ wiki ac induction motor”

your motor has a centrifugal switch from your img-409 that you attached ?
your are getting weird reading in one of the wires might be because you are taking measurements with the capacitor in line?
capacitor act as open when fully charged in dc mode. Your ohm meter is dc.

and check your centrifugal switch for oxidation and deformations that is preventing to make contact?

That drum switch diagram you posted only explains the continuity of the drums pins when in forward stop and reverse. Not necessary the t1 t2 connections on the motor.

I don’t think you have reviews that video posts on response 5 or 6. If you don’t like guy’s monotone. There is an better article on practicalmachinist site that explains how the ac induction motor works really great post. Not home so can’t search. You can search here with I have posted it before.

you will probably have to sit down and identify what w1 w2 and w3 coil you have there and make your connections properly.

 

[Zeke]

As per my diagram is post #55, everything works as it should first try. Like the day I got it.

I want to again thank all of the participants of this thread — you guys know a lot. Likely there are not many of these old 1944 motors around anymore. i will make sure to copy the best parts of this thread into a single post, join up over on PM and title a new thread specific to this subject. I think that will be much easier to find since they have a dedicated South Bend sub forum.

I couldn't be happier as this didn't cost me anything spare some wire, nuts, shrink wrap and some terminal ends, all of which I had on hand.

Much obliged!

 

[Dagny]

Most of the wiring diagrams floating around are not suitable for motors that have a thermal cutout. To have the run and start winding current going through the O.L. requires 5 wires from reversing switch to motor. The diagrams on the switches are not right. You can do it like those diagrams and it will work until the first time the motor fails to start for whatever reason. The overload will open to the run winding but not the start. the start winding won't last long.

I have changed hundreds of these on silo unloader winch motors.

 

[FredWanaker]

glad you found the label

 

[American Locomotive]

My gut feeling that with power being applied to T1 and T4, and T2 and T3 tied together is actually the "high voltage" configuration, and you will have significantly less power.

 

[Zeke]

Thank you for the last 2 suggestions. If you would further explain yourselves using my switch layout, that will help me understand what you are proposing. Again, this is my switch:What would you move and where?

 

[Zeke]

OK, you guys (some of you) are correct. Under load the motor surges about once a second. Sounds like r-u-n-n-n-n, surge, r-u-n-n-n-n-n, surge, etc.

Dagny, I'm not sure where a thermal cut-out might be. Pretty straight forward inside with no extra loops to any boxes or visible contact switches.

American, you might have the answer, but I have no idea on how to go about changing back to 120v. I can hook the power cord up to my welder extension and light it up with 240. Would you risk that?

dogdog, when I was attempting to test the cap, it was off the motor completely. I'm not sure I learned anything because my capacitor testing experience has mainly been with old radios. When those fail they usually show evidence and are open or shorted. I show neither of these conditions, just not 400+ MFD or mFD, whichever it is. My DVM does not have adjustable ranges in that function. And the symbol is that funny u followed by F. The cap on the motor does not use that symbol. It's back in its sleeve but IIRC, it said 400-450 MFD, 110v.

AFA testing Oms through the motor windings. I was hoping that the suggested circuits were T's 1 thru 4 and testing 1,2; 1,3; 1,4, etc. No 5 or 6.

I guess I just answered my question about applying 240v to the motor. No can do.

It's funny that no one on the Net talks about a motor that surges every second or even a little less. I seem to have the motor from hell. And yes, it does seem to be down on power. No load, no problem.

 

[dogdog]

none of my post mention da F. ? Where do you see the F.??

400-500 micro farad is noted in ufd (micro farad) , mfd /MFD sometimes different notation. If you try to measure ohm on a cap, it needle/value will jump when it is charging the cap, until it is fully charge and it will "act" as open in DC circuit. 115v is the operating voltage rating on your cap. nothing to do with what is taking the measurements. Just something to point out check if you the capacitor inline with your run coils when you took those measurements. From this end of the screen, won't know if you did or did not.

https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/direct-current/chpt-16/capacitor-transient-response/

Your motor plate on the image that you posted says 115/230v 50hz capable. I am not sure any "Permanent-split capacitor" split phase motor have dual voltage capability. but that is me. and your picture 409 looks like it have a centrifugal switch as well there. and says dual voltage, so might indicated it's "capacitor start" split phase motor.

AC motor - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

hmmm might be my confusion on the PSC split phase and Capacitor start split phase induction motor.

I usually referred capacitor start split phase AC induction motor as just AC induction motor and PSC split phase AC induction motor as split phase... but that is just me...

From all the reading I have done when I was redoing my drill press motor to make capacitor start split phase ac induction motor reversible... and dual voltage.

The notation for coils are W1 ( run coil T1 and T2 ) W2 ( run coil might be optional if it is single voltage T3 and T4) W3 (start coil T5 and T6)
and the T connection are for terminal points I think T1 to T8. with T6 and T7 are usually hidden and indicated for the terminal at the centrifugal switch.

If I was blindly dropped a capacitor start motor on my head to make it run... I would have map out W1 - W3 all connections and coils especially if it reads dual voltage. then check the centrifugal switch and mechanism and the capacitor for the value. Don't even know how they calculate reactance to calculate capacitor value It have something to do with the ac line frequency and the Z that is all I remembered.. How it then connect is pretty simple.. After you identify all those the

This is the article I was referring to in the practical machinist site for capacitor start split phase motor. But all these is explained in that link by that Canadian guy woodgear.ca matthew/mattis something guy. You just have to sit down and take it slow.

Help Please ~ Wiring the Switch to the motor

Yes ... I know... there are many many posts to this question....but i find them all VERY confusing (Electrical work just escapes me) Here is my newer motor... and my switch... can someone please draw me a simple diagram with simple instructions on how to wire this dog up :~) Included are the...

www.practicalmachinist.com

I am not sure how you got it working but it works... so

 

[Zeke]

No, dogdog, it doesn't work. It starts and turns, but something is not right.

Being as how I am motor ignorant, I will attempt some logic based on no knowledge. If one assumes the centrifugal switch opens at a certain RPM, then what it does is start, the switch opens, the motor slows to the point that the switch closes again, shoots some more current into the run coil (or some coil, that's the problem) and the motor jerks back up to speed only to slow down again repeating the cycle of events.

I'm fully ready to undo some wire nuts and rearrange. I've been on PM for the last hour and have 4 new print outs to study. The consensus is this is a very difficult motor switch combination. Attached is one of those that looks promising.

 

[American Locomotive]

American, you might have the answer, but I have no idea on how to go about changing back to 120v. I can hook the power cord up to my welder extension and light it up with 240. Would you risk that?

I'm like 99% positive your motor is wired for 240v right now.

It's funny that no one on the Net talks about a motor that surges every second or even a little less. I seem to have the motor from hell. And yes, it does seem to be down on power. No load, no problem.

With the motor configured for 240v, it will roughly only have 1/4th of its power running on 120v. So your 1/2 HP motor is at around 1/8th HP right now. It's surging because it doesn't have enough power to keep the lathe going. What happens is the start winding + cap gives it a nice torque boost, the centrifugal switch kicks out, then the motor starts slowing down again because it doesn't have enough torque. When it slows down to a certain point, the start switch clicks back in, the start winding is engaged, the motor gets another torque boost and starts speeding back up. The process repeats continuously over and over.

ASSUMING your measurements in your earlier posts are correct, this SHOULD be how you concert the motor to 120v. These connection changes are to be made down at the MOTOR. NOT the switch. I have attached two drawings. One shows a better representation of how the motor works internally, and what is happening when it's on 240v mode, and how to switch it to 120v.

240v


120v

 

[FredWanaker]

You don't need the switch to get it running right. The switch is the easy part.

 

[dogdog]

No, dogdog, it doesn't work. It starts and turns, but something is not right.

Being as how I am motor ignorant, I will attempt some logic based on no knowledge. If one assumes the centrifugal switch opens at a certain RPM, then what it does is start, the switch opens, the motor slows to the point that the switch closes again, shoots some more current into the run coil (or some coil, that's the problem) and the motor jerks back up to speed only to slow down again repeating the cycle of events.

I'm fully ready to undo some wire nuts and rearrange. I've been on PM for the last hour and have 4 new print outs to study. The consensus is this is a very difficult motor switch combination. Attached is one of those that looks promising.

If it was me.
don't worry about the drum switch at the moment , I think drum switch is nothing more than a fancy DPDT center off with one of the legs arrange in a strange way... (there was one post that mentions it here, about 2019 or 2018 post some chap was a motor expert and in those maintenance fields... haven't seen him, probably got purged)

dependents on how far you want to go.. that motor is old, wire and insulation is... questionable. wear mask maybe.

As far as diagram... I would study that one from the practical machinist site... at least that was how I started to understand those capacitor start motors. way back in my drill press motor mod thread.... (still haven't found a single use for that function reversible drill press lol , but it is there).. but it talks about the W1 W2 W3 and how to make it reversible by changing the connection of W3 and how to change from low voltage to dual voltage for these single phase motors by either switching the W1 and W2 to be in parallel (low voltage) or in series (high voltage)..... Understand that basic helps you a lot though IMO...

There was a motor company USA (don't remember name) one that just got bought by some Swiss motor company (don't remember name), don't remember the name but they have good motor diagrams... if you review few, you'll get the sense about the notation of the motor and winding... and how the drum switch are connected.

I would start fresh. but that is me.

This is the pattern I notice, not to say it's the absolute thinggy...

These type of motor, the Centrifugal switch always makes connection when motor is stopped or below certain RPM... and one end is always connected to the start coil (w3) and the other point of the centrifugal switch is always connected to the capacitor then to one of the L1 or L2... the other end of the coil W3 is always connected to either the T2 and T3 if it is 240v or if low voltage T1 and T3.. saying that... the other end of the coil always connected to T3 no matter the voltage setting.

How does that help you... it basically tells you that the start coil always connected to the centrifugal switch.... helps you identify the start coil.. sounds confusing... yea.. that is why I always refer to "other" articles other people write better than me.

usually in these scenarios, W1 ohm = W2 ohms or very close... W3 usually is about the total resistance of W1+ W2... at this point you ahve figured out T1 to T6..


I'll posted that other post that was posted here and found it useful..pretty sure it was Baldor motors company not 100%...

 

[Zeke]

What about the 110v (that's what it says because it's old) cap? I've read that won't survive 240v. However, I'm told that the cap may somehow be on one leg of the 240.

Now here's another tidbit that I want to share. I told you the machine was plugged into what looked to be NEMA 5-15R receptacle, BUT the power cord wasn't your typical black/white/green. In fact it was (I replaced it) black/red/green. So the old dude that sold this through his niece because of his health, may have had some illegal **** in that shop. It might run with 2 legs and an EGC, but somehow I think even though a welder will run on 2 wires, this may not.

Once again, I can bring 240v over to the power cord and alligator clip it to the plug and I'm betting that the green was carrying current. Now that would be pretty lousy to find that's how this thing was wired. Can you say shock city?

 

[American Locomotive]

What about the 110v (that's what it says because it's old) cap? I've read that won't survive 240v. However, I'm told that the cap may somehow be on one leg of the 240.

Now here's another tidbit that I want to share. I told you the machine was plugged into what looked to be NEMA 5-15R receptacle, BUT the power cord wasn't your typical black/white/green. In fact it was (I replaced it) black/red/green. So the old dude that sold this through his niece because of his health, may have had some illegal **** in that shop.

Once again, I can bring 240v over to the power cord and alligator clip it to the plug and I'm betting that the green was carrying current. Now that would be pretty lousy to find that's how this thing was wired. Can you say shock city?

The voltage rating on the start cap is really irrelevant. I've seen start caps rated from anywhere from 110v to 400v - all on 120v motors. The start cap is only engaged very briefly, so the voltage rating doesn't matter.

There are 240v outlets that look almost exactly the same as NEMA 5-15R. A NEMA 6-20R for example, is a 20A 240v outlet that is literally just a mirrored 5-20R. If just taking a quick look, it won't look like anything special.

In a 240V "only" application, you do not need a neutral. So 3 wires - black,red, green would be correct. You only need 4 wires if you have a mixed 240/120 load - like a clothes dryer that has a 120v motor, but 240v heating elements.

Please, just connect the motor as I showed in my diagram. Those connection changes must be made down at the motor - leave the switch side alone. You know the switch side is correct now.

 

[Zeke]

I know a fair amount about electrical wiring being a general contractor and having done quite a bit of residential electrical work. I have never seen a 240v recep that fooled me. The old power cord to this motor has parallel blades. That's not 240v.

However, I'm not being critical. In fact, I really appreciate your posts. I will dig into the box at the motor and make those changes.

 

[Bert_]

I'm like 99% positive your motor is wired for 240v right now.

With the motor configured for 240v, it will roughly only have 1/4th of its power running on 120v. So your 1/2 HP motor is at around 1/8th HP right now. It's surging because it doesn't have enough power to keep the lathe going. What happens is the start winding + cap gives it a nice torque boost, the centrifugal switch kicks out, then the motor starts slowing down again because it doesn't have enough torque. When it slows down to a certain point, the start switch clicks back in, the start winding is engaged, the motor gets another torque boost and starts speeding back up. The process repeats continuously over and over.

ASSUMING your measurements in your earlier posts are correct, this SHOULD be how you concert the motor to 120v. These connection changes are to be made down at the MOTOR. NOT the switch. I have attached two drawings. One shows a better representation of how the motor works internally, and what is happening when it's on 240v mode, and how to switch it to 120v.

240v


120v

This really has to be the right wiring.

 

[dogdog]

What about the 110v (that's what it says because it's old) cap? I've read that won't survive 240v. However, I'm told that the cap may somehow be on one leg of the 240.

Now here's another tidbit that I want to share. I told you the machine was plugged into what looked to be NEMA 5-15R receptacle, BUT the power cord wasn't your typical black/white/green. In fact it was (I replaced it) black/red/green. So the old dude that sold this through his niece because of his health, may have had some illegal **** in that shop. It might run with 2 legs and an EGC, but somehow I think even though a welder will run on 2 wires, this may not.

Once again, I can bring 240v over to the power cord and alligator clip it to the plug and I'm betting that the green was carrying current. Now that would be pretty lousy to find that's how this thing was wired. Can you say shock city?

The cap voltage rating is the operating voltage of that cap... you mentioned it earlier already, the run coil don't see more than 120V.. when in high voltage mode... the W1 is in series with W2, supposedly it will act as voltage dropper.. so 1/2 of 240 is 120. that the run coil sees and the cap sees. me. if I have to buy a new cap, I'll get one that is 300V rated... but old cap 110V would still works works. Don't trust me though, I have not touch those stuff in ages.


KVL still applies to inductor as well as resistors I think...

https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/inductor/series-inductors.html

I would verify your current hook up first if it is me... W1 W2 W3 and make sure W1 and W2 is in series ( high voltage setup) before trying...
you cap still can go kaboom (well a pop and some bad smell of that carcinogen liquid pcb) if it happens your W1 and W2 are parallel... your Run coil will also be in parallel, and Cap probably sees 240V-ish... that is a scenario you would try to avoid...

Nope never done it, so can't say ya / nay.

 

[Zeke]

You keep saying 2 caps. I know about 2 caps on HVAC, mostly dual. I have one large old cap outside the motor like a lot of old motors. I can pretty well say by reading that it's a start cap.

 

[American Locomotive]

Ignore the cap. If the motor starts up at all, the cap is likely fine.

Focus on the wiring for now.

 

[FredWanaker]

I don't know if this will help.

Can you please verify with the wires all disconnected that

T1 - T3 shows about 2.7 ohms
T2 - T4 shows about 2.4 ohms
T3 - T6 shows momentary continuity then none

T5 is open to anything else including the motor case ground. Also check T5 to the centrifugal switch.

 

[Zeke]

OK, ready to do surgery. I'm noting the procedure to convert from 240 to 120v as per the latest diagrams.

Here's what I have:

Disconnect T-2,3
Connect T-1,3 (in box at the motor)
Connect T-3,4 (")
Leave switch alone.

Fred, I did that on page one, post #15. Exactly what you're looking for.

 

[American Locomotive]

OK, ready to do surgery. I'm noting the procedure to convert from 240 to 120v as per the latest diagrams.

Here's what I have:

Disconnect T-2,3
Connect T-1,3 (in box at the motor)
Connect T-3,4 (")
Leave switch alone.

Fred, I did that on page one, post #15. Exactly what you're looking for.

No! Look at the diagram again!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Connect T1-T2
Connect T3-T4

What you wrote is just going to create a dead short from Hot to Neutral!!!!!!!

 

[Zeke]

American, I'm sorry, I wrote my notes correctly and typed them in wrong. At least I got the first line right.

I'm dyslexic, what can I say. But thanks for clarifying.

 

[FredWanaker]

something is just not right here. If all six wires are loose in the motor, and pairs T1 and T3 are main windings, pairs T2 - T4 are main windings, then T3 should not have continuity to T6, leaving T5 to go to nowhere. I suspect that part of the problem is that you are trying to troubleshoot the motor and switch at the same time, leading to you confusing yourself. Solve the motor problem first then work on the switch.

 

[Zeke]

Fred, at this point too many conflicts. I'm tired of after 4 days straight. I follow the latest plan and got nothing but a hum. BTDT. And by moving wires as diagramed, I ended up with presumably a wire from switch terminals 1 or 2 with no home. Looking at the diagram I figured it should to to the new 2,3,4 (since 2 and 4 were already a pair) and that's where it should go. Well that turned out the lights, my first direct short.

So I give up. I can't do this. I'll hire it out. Best thing I can do is take the motor switch with conduit and all to the shop. Then I'll bring it back as complete assembly and bolt it back on. Thanks to all.

Out.