Tools of Japan

[Fedwrench]

The following tool is being discussed in another thread but felt that it should be mentioned here.

With that being stated, has anyone here on the forum has actually used this particular tool from Koken #154M?

If so how did you use it and for what purpose?

It is known as a "Push Pull Ratchet" and comes in either 10, 12, 13 or 14mm 6 point socket and in in various reach lengths.

Push and Pull Ratchet 10mm 6 point Length 297mm - Ko-ken USA

Wrench Size: 10mm Length: 297mm Type: 6 Point Push and Pull Ratchet Opening: 6pt Product Dimension (Refer Line Drawing Image): D Size: 20.1mm C Size: - Ko-ken USA

kokenusa.com

There is now a newer version offered of this same tool that Koken has come out with.

Ko-ken Push and Pull Ratchet 12mm 6 point Length 300mm - Palmac

Wrench Size: 12mm Length: 200mm Type: 6 Point Push and Pull Ratchet Opening: 6pt - Palmac Tools

palmac.net

Not the Ko-Ken model but, back in the day, Snap on had the top version of the push pull ratchet that was the only thing you could use to remove the top shock nut on rear Crown Vic shocks. Haven't touched a Crown Vic in years so, it gathers dust in my box. The slide hammer in the updated version seems handy. Luckily, I don't currently work on anything that requires a set up like this though.

 

[kyrbz]

Seeing others peoples post made me wanna pick up these Anex ultra low profile screwdrivers and Tsunoda chain clip pliers

 

[Reed Prince]

 

[Vicks]

I love it lol. Koken's switch convention actually makes more sense to me, although I never check it while working.

Their switches point in the direction that the fastener will rotate - both of these will LOOSEN the fastener, AKA Counter-clockwise.

+1

Lefty loosy, Righty tighty…. Makes perfect sense

 

[Vicks]

Had been facing a high pitched exhaust rattle noise on the Patrol for a few weeks now and it was only happening at a particular rev range, hence intermittent. Got down under the car today to find and fix the issue and isolated the noise to one of the exhaust hanger brackets. Now the issue is that this bracket is in a really hard to reach spot - between the transmission itself and the transmission tunnel (body shell). There’s Barely any room for me to slide my hand in to reach the bracket, and it’s got 3 M8 screws that are reasonably tight from heat and rust (like all self respecting exhaust fasteners should be haha). Leverage is an issue and you can forget any kind of power tool here due to space constraints - see pic below - on the left you see the transmission pan and on the right is the exhaust down pipe with probably 5-7cms of space between the two.


And that’s where the bracket is hidden… now I found that the bracket is missing the two rubber mounting grommets/bushes which had probably been damaged due to heat and age. I have rubber bushings that match but to install them I need to take the bracket out.


First I sprayed some Wd40 and let it sit for 30mins, then tried a Wera 12mm ratcheting spanner, too short to give me enough leverage to break the rusted fastener and remember there is not enough space for me to put some weight behind the spanner


Next I tried the KTC 3/8 breaker bar (400mm IIRC) with a Ko-ken Zeal 12mm socket (because regular sockets are too tall to fit there - failed again because the breaker bar is too long to allow for any angular movement


Finally I used the Ko-ken Zeal 3/8” ratchet with the Zeal 12mm socket and voila, it gave me the right amount of leverage to break loose the fastener and the fine tooth gear was worth it’s money due to the extremely low swing arc.


So I took out the bracket and installed the missing rubber grommets


Best part was when it was time to install the bracket back in the car, There was no way I could hand tighten the screws due to space constraints so, the excellent (Zero) back drag on the Ko-ken Zeal ratchet allowed me to thread in the 3 screws from start and then torque them up correctly, no way it would have been possible if the ratchet had any amount of back drag in it.

I think I just recovered all of my investment in the Zeal kit

 

[4xdog]

...First I sprayed some Wd40 and let it sit for 30mins...

Check to see if you can get PB Blaster, or less likely, Kroil, in Dubai. Lots better than WD40 for penetrating into rusted or super-tight fasteners.

 

[Vicks]

Check to see if you can get PB Blaster, or less likely, Kroil, in Dubai. Lots better than WD40 for penetrating into rusted or super-tight fasteners.

Haven’t seen either of those products in any of the stores here but I’ll have to search online. I do use a home brew (50-50 ATF & Paint thinner) as penetrant for such applications but had ran out of it for this job, thanks for pointing this out, I should mix up another batch of the stuff.

 

[4xdog]

...I do use a home brew (50-50 ATF & Paint thinner)...

Home brews can work fine. Many folks will use ATF and acetone. (Paint thinner often means mineral spirits, a "slower" solvent than acetone. Acetone is often a component of "lacquer thinner" blends.)

 

[4xdog]

...it’s got 3 M8 screws that are reasonably tight from heat and rust (like all self respecting exhaust fasteners should be haha)...

BTW, @Vicks, having grown up in the rust belt of Ohio, that exhaust hanger looks close to MINT condition. That isn't anything like what we would have called "rust" in the US midwest!

 

[BlackBowtie]

Not sure if these have been posted in here before. Just came across a video clip of someone using one in a Instagram video. Does anyone else make something similar?

https://www.tonetool.co.jp/products/flyer/flyer_304.pdf

 

[Next]

Are you guys using White Rabbit or something similar to buy this stuff?

 

[Madjik Man]

Are you guys using White Rabbit or something similar to buy this stuff?

For Koken I use Palmac or Koken USA.

There are a couple of US distributors for Tone as well.

I still haven't figured out the payment process for Amazon.jp, lol

 

[Zjenji]

Had been facing a high pitched exhaust rattle noise on the Patrol for a few weeks now and it was only happening at a particular rev range, hence intermittent. Got down under the car today to find and fix the issue and isolated the noise to one of the exhaust hanger brackets. Now the issue is that this bracket is in a really hard to reach spot - between the transmission itself and the transmission tunnel (body shell). There’s Barely any room for me to slide my hand in to reach the bracket, and it’s got 3 M8 screws that are reasonably tight from heat and rust (like all self respecting exhaust fasteners should be haha). Leverage is an issue and you can forget any kind of power tool here due to space constraints - see pic below - on the left you see the transmission pan and on the right is the exhaust down pipe with probably 5-7cms of space between the two.


And that’s where the bracket is hidden… now I found that the bracket is missing the two rubber mounting grommets/bushes which had probably been damaged due to heat and age. I have rubber bushings that match but to install them I need to take the bracket out.


First I sprayed some Wd40 and let it sit for 30mins, then tried a Wera 12mm ratcheting spanner, too short to give me enough leverage to break the rusted fastener and remember there is not enough space for me to put some weight behind the spanner


Next I tried the KTC 3/8 breaker bar (400mm IIRC) with a Ko-ken Zeal 12mm socket (because regular sockets are too tall to fit there - failed again because the breaker bar is too long to allow for any angular movement


Finally I used the Ko-ken Zeal 3/8” ratchet with the Zeal 12mm socket and voila, it gave me the right amount of leverage to break loose the fastener and the fine tooth gear was worth it’s money due to the extremely low swing arc.


So I took out the bracket and installed the missing rubber grommets


Best part was when it was time to install the bracket back in the car, There was no way I could hand tighten the screws due to space constraints so, the excellent (Zero) back drag on the Ko-ken Zeal ratchet allowed me to thread in the 3 screws from start and then torque them up correctly, no way it would have been possible if the ratchet had any amount of back drag in it.

I think I just recovered all of my investment in the Zeal kit

I LOVE stories like these!

 

[Zjenji]

Check to see if you can get PB Blaster, or less likely, Kroil, in Dubai. Lots better than WD40 for penetrating into rusted or super-tight fasteners.

Saw a can of Kroil the other day for $40! Bout threw up.

 

[4xdog]

Saw a can of Kroil the other day for $40! Bout threw up.

Kroil is a nice penetrating oil. But it ain't that nice.

 

[Vicks]

Saw a can of Kroil the other day for $40! Bout threw up.

So I looked up on Amazon and here’s some prices in $ equivalent:

Kroil aerosol can - 40$
Liquid wrench can - 26$
PB blaster - 60$

Yup, those are crazy prices, but none are locally available and probably are shipped from the US. A can of WD40 is 4$ for comparison.

 

[Odd-job]

For Koken I use Palmac or Koken USA.

There are a couple of US distributors for Tone as well.

I still haven't figured out the payment process for Amazon.jp, lol

I have been buying from both Palmac and DPRD, but am about to give Amazon Japan a go. There's some substantial savings right now with the way the USD has moved against the Yen.

Those Merry electrical pliers are $25 with current exchange rates.

Also might need to give Amazon.de a shot. Knipex is really cheap on there right now. The parrot pliers are going off at $24. USD is almost 1 to 1 with the Euro.

Just need to mentally get over having to pay for the shipping...

 

[CGarage]

Had been facing a high pitched exhaust rattle noise on the Patrol for a few weeks now and it was only happening at a particular rev range, hence intermittent. Got down under the car today to find and fix the issue and isolated the noise to one of the exhaust hanger brackets. Now the issue is that this bracket is in a really hard to reach spot - between the transmission itself and the transmission tunnel (body shell). There’s Barely any room for me to slide my hand in to reach the bracket, and it’s got 3 M8 screws that are reasonably tight from heat and rust (like all self respecting exhaust fasteners should be haha). Leverage is an issue and you can forget any kind of power tool here due to space constraints - see pic below - on the left you see the transmission pan and on the right is the exhaust down pipe with probably 5-7cms of space between the two.


And that’s where the bracket is hidden… now I found that the bracket is missing the two rubber mounting grommets/bushes which had probably been damaged due to heat and age. I have rubber bushings that match but to install them I need to take the bracket out.


First I sprayed some Wd40 and let it sit for 30mins, then tried a Wera 12mm ratcheting spanner, too short to give me enough leverage to break the rusted fastener and remember there is not enough space for me to put some weight behind the spanner


Next I tried the KTC 3/8 breaker bar (400mm IIRC) with a Ko-ken Zeal 12mm socket (because regular sockets are too tall to fit there - failed again because the breaker bar is too long to allow for any angular movement


Finally I used the Ko-ken Zeal 3/8” ratchet with the Zeal 12mm socket and voila, it gave me the right amount of leverage to break loose the fastener and the fine tooth gear was worth it’s money due to the extremely low swing arc.


So I took out the bracket and installed the missing rubber grommets


Best part was when it was time to install the bracket back in the car, There was no way I could hand tighten the screws due to space constraints so, the excellent (Zero) back drag on the Ko-ken Zeal ratchet allowed me to thread in the 3 screws from start and then torque them up correctly, no way it would have been possible if the ratchet had any amount of back drag in it.

I think I just recovered all of my investment in the Zeal kit

Great repair but use something other than WD40 to loosen up rusted bits.....

 

[superautobacs]

The following tool is being discussed in another thread but felt that it should be mentioned here.

With that being stated, has anyone here on the forum has actually used this particular tool from Koken #154M?

If so how did you use it and for what purpose?

It is known as a "Push Pull Ratchet" and comes in either 10, 12, 13 or 14mm 6 point socket and in in various reach lengths.

Push and Pull Ratchet 10mm 6 point Length 297mm - Ko-ken USA

Wrench Size: 10mm Length: 297mm Type: 6 Point Push and Pull Ratchet Opening: 6pt Product Dimension (Refer Line Drawing Image): D Size: 20.1mm C Size: - Ko-ken USA

kokenusa.com

There is now a newer version offered of this same tool that Koken has come out with.

Ko-ken Push and Pull Ratchet 12mm 6 point Length 300mm - Palmac

Wrench Size: 12mm Length: 200mm Type: 6 Point Push and Pull Ratchet Opening: 6pt - Palmac Tools

palmac.net

I've got one, but I haven't used it yet! I have a 10mm to 1/4" square adapter mounted to it so that I have the option to drive sockets...but it's just been sitting in my box.
I mentioned it here:

 

[CGarage]

I've got one, but I haven't used it yet! I have a 10mm to 1/4" square adapter mounted to it so that I have the option to drive sockets...but it's just been sitting in my box.
I mentioned it here:

Thank you for your contributions and expertise on all things having to do with Japanese tools......

 

[silkman]

So I looked up on Amazon and here’s some prices in $ equivalent:

Kroil aerosol can - 40$
Liquid wrench can - 26$
PB blaster - 60$

Yup, those are crazy prices, but none are locally available and probably are shipped from the US. A can of WD40 is 4$ for comparison.

As others said 50:50 ATF and acetone. Acetone evaporates so its best to put the mix in sealed container or oiler. Shake well before use because acetone and atf dont mix.

 

[mercifiknow]

I need to replace my pick set for o-rings and seals. American or Japanese? Where company are you getting them from in Japan?

 

[Gregthegadgetguy]

I have been using a KTC and Tone o ring pick for about a year now. The Tone has a nicer finish than the snap on one I have.

 

[mercifiknow]

I have been using a KTC and Tone o ring pick for about a year now. The Tone has a nicer finish than the snap on one I have.

Do the have a set?

 

[CGarage]

I have been using a KTC and Tone o ring pick for about a year now. The Tone has a nicer finish than the snap on one I have.

What is the yellow pry tool on the end?

 

[Half-fast eddie]

What is the yellow pry tool on the end?

I bought a pack of 4 of those, nylon-ish plastic, useful for prying loose door panels and trim withoit scratching anything.

 

[CGarage]

I bought a pack of 4 of those, nylon-ish plastic, useful for prying loose door panels and trim withoit scratching anything.

And who made them??? Link?

 

[Madjik Man]

I love and hate this thread.

I love seeing everyone else’s Japanese tools.

I hate the fact I usually buy something after reading anew post.

 

[4xdog]

And who made them??? Link?

Those same pry tools are available all over the place. HF, the big boxes, Amazon -- just about anywhere.

The better brand of that kind of thing is probably from BOJO.

Here's one of several threads on here discussing them:

strongest non-marring pry tools (nylon etc)

I'd buy carbon fiber if they were sold... I use plastic pry tools all the time for auto restoration work and have now broken or scored enough that I need a new set. Would like something strong.

www.garagejournal.com

 

[Gregthegadgetguy]

@CGarage that yellow pry bar is from HF, don’t get too excited. Lol

 

[Gregthegadgetguy]

@mercifiknow The o ring picks do not come in a set. Do yourself a favor and add the Tone one to your next Amazon jp order. I always grab that one first. It feels great and is small and compact.

 

[4xdog]

This is a "sort of" Tools of Japan source... The one I'm going to show is made in China and sold by this Japanese company, but they do have made in Japan stuff sometimes, too. It sorta fits with the pick & pokey tool discussion we've been just having.

Some of you may know Daiso, the Japanese dollar store. or better said, the "Japanese 100 yen store" that sells all kinds of things in a really brightly lit Hello Kitty kind of retail space. There are several near the places I stay in San Diego and I'll often pick up things when I'm there. Plasticware for the kitchen can often be redeployed into the shop. Stationery and office stuff too.

They have (in theory) a mail order service, but I have no experience with that.

Here's an item I and one of my friends find regularly useful. A set of small thin brushes with stiff-ish bristles on one end and a soft-ish scraper/lever/crevice tool on the other. Daiso is very hit-or-miss. This one is a hit, and it seems often to be in stock, whereas other stuff comes and goes all the time.

So if you're in a city with a Daiso store, you might want to check it out.

 

[darkzero]

Admittedly I love Daiso. I've got 2 near me and whenever I'm in the area & have time I'll drop in to browse. I buy all sorts of knick knacks from them.

When they first opened here I just assumed it was like a Sanrio store so I never bothered going inside until I realized it was like a Japanese dollar (well $1.50, but prices have gone up recently) store.

 

[4xdog]

...I buy all sorts of knick knacks from them...

I have a number of things I've found at Dasio that are in my camping gear. Some of it's unique and quite useful. I'm with ya on lovin' the place.

 

[midorix]

Thanks to you guys, I been stocking up on lot of cool Japanese tools for past few months and I finally got to use some of these tools extensively during the timing belt and water pump change for the 2000 Toyota Solara. What surprised me the most was which tools I ended up using the most. Before I started the work, I thought it would be my Koken Zeal series but ended up being the following four from the top:

1. KTC Hose Clip Plier AE932
2. Koken 3/8 Swivel Head Ratchet 3776N
3. KTC 3/8 swivel ratchet long BRSW3L
4. Engineer Nejisaurus PZ-57



Hose clip plier needs no explanation. Made things so much easier than using standard needle nose plier or even compared to Knipex Cobras.

Koken and KTC swivel head ratchet really surprised me. Ability to angle things made so much easier to access the nut and bolts I need it to get to (thanks Toyota for cramming everything in a weird way, unlike Honda). Should of got swivel heads long time ago.

And the one I was most impressed with was the Nejisaurus PZ-57. I was teaching my son how to use torque wrench and allowed him to screw in a 10mm bolt for the back timing belt cover that is screwed into the aluminum engine block, right below the valve cover. He went too fast, wasn't holding the torque wrench correctly, and the bolt snapped (completely my fault.....bad teacher). So I had to stare at this thing to ask myself do I drill, get some bolt extractor tool, etc. knowing that if I chose the wrong method, I can make things worse (bolt gets further stuck, metal shavings going into engine, so forth) I even thought of taking the valve cover off just to get access from the other side which would have been a pain (thanks again Toyota!). 30 minutes has passed. Then I thought of this Nejisaurus. I wish I took a picture before extracting but it looked as if the broken bolt has nothing extended to bite into. Nejisaurus was able to grab what I believe to be 0.1mm of the edge of the bolt and it created enough friction, bite to turn......I mean wholly ****! Had to show it to my son immediately (so he won't feel bad) and my wife because that's how elated I was. Worth every penny and then some.

Honorable mention to Koken nut gripper sockets. They were also handy taking bolts on and off in tight spaces without dropping them into a Black Hole.

 

[Vicks]

Thanks to you guys, I been stocking up on lot of cool Japanese tools for past few months and I finally got to use some of these tools extensively during the timing belt and water pump change for the 2000 Toyota Solara. What surprised me the most was which tools I ended up using the most. Before I started the work, I thought it would be my Koken Zeal series but ended up being the following four from the top:

1. KTC Hose Clip Plier AE932
2. Koken 3/8 Swivel Head Ratchet 3776N
3. KTC 3/8 swivel ratchet long BRSW3L
4. Engineer Nejisaurus PZ-57



Koken and KTC swivel head ratchet really surprised me. Ability to angle things made so much easier to access the nut and bolts I need it to get to (thanks Toyota for cramming everything in a weird way, unlike Honda). Should of got swivel heads long time ago.

I've been lusting after the KTC 3/8 swivel head ratchet but havent found an application where i would need it over the regular ratchets, flex head ratchets and spinner handles.

How do you find the difference between Ko-ken and KTC 3/8' swivel head ratchets ? I like the KTC because of compactness but generally buy Ko-ken for all my socketry related tools.

 

[m6z]

Man, that KTC ratchet looks tiny next to the Ko-ken.

 

[m6z]

I love and hate this thread.

I love seeing everyone else’s Japanese tools.

I hate the fact I usually buy something after reading anew post.

Same. I've got another Amazon Japan cart started. I think that would make order number four this year.

The only reason I have placed order number four? My toolbox is full and I'm not sure I can make anymore room rearranging stuff.

 

[midorix]

I've been lusting after the KTC 3/8 swivel head ratchet but havent found an application where i would need it over the regular ratchets, flex head ratchets and spinner handles.

How do you find the difference between Ko-ken and KTC 3/8' swivel head ratchets ? I like the KTC because of compactness but generally buy Ko-ken for all my socketry related tools.

That’s what I thought too for many years, hence never got swivel heads till now. Yes, you can get away not having it but I found swivel heads so much easier to use in tight spaces with ability to put decent amount of torque and did not have to deal with moving flex heads (I’ve got non locking version). Also the ability for the ratchet to go fully vertical made things go faster. Both KTC and Koken has low drag which made thing easier as well.

It’s exactly the compactness is the difference between KTC and Koken. I used KTC for 10mm and 12mmm bolts, low torque application in tight spaces but when I had higher torque, more space, or 14mm bolts, I used Koken. I didn’t want to over torque the KTC due to compact design so the Koken worked out nicely.

For sockets, I really liked Koken. Used mostly nut grippers and 3/8 Z-series deep sockets.

 

[midorix]

Same. I've got another Amazon Japan cart started. I think that would make order number four this year.

The only reason I have placed order number four? My toolbox is full and I'm not sure I can make anymore room rearranging stuff.

Sounds like you need a new tool box.