rburke65
Well-known member
Went to the Good Guys car show in Columbus the weekend of July 8-10. Bought a ‘49 Plymouth dash board, $50… Rey complete and I’ll be re doing it for a ‘wall hanger’.


I feel your pain - changed a toilet shut off as the rest of the bathroom fixtures will be oil Rubbed Bronze not chrome. I now have no ceiling in the room below due to a poor solder joint.I somberly gathered the requisite tools in the garage (I hate plumbing).
The fridge in the house had developed a slow water flow - I worked on it last Monday and could not find the problem after much disassembly - but the flow picked up - not quite where it should be though - so go figure. Maybe some ice in the line.
But of course, the water valve to the fridge had to be turned off - and of course it leaked around the stem after turning it back on too much to settle down. But that's the problem with plumbing - you start with one problem and pick up at least one more on the way (I hate plumbing).
So after buying a new valve to install I tackled it this afternoon. Step one - shut off the water at the meter. Yes - I have a shut off valve that can be accessed by crawling under the house and operating an old valve that is close to 50 years old - or I can shut it off at the meter (I hate plumbing).
I shut it off at the meter. OK - didn't break or loosen anything there - no leaks so we are good/lucky. Survived that one.
Removed the old valve - cleaned off the old tape (MIP threads) and put the new valve on without hooking up the line to the fridge. Reasonable torque applied - turned valve off and water back on and the connections at the meter seem fine.
No leaks from the input connection or the open output.
Going too well - starting to get more worried here.
Cut off the old compression ferrule and hooked up the line to the new valve - giving it just a slight oomph so it was not too tight - if it leaks I can tighten it more (I hate plumbing).
Opened valve - no leaks.
I have no idea what my pipes have in store for me today but I'm pretty sure it's not over. I hate plumbing.
Been there. Done similar. In my case, I needed to chip out some concrete slab to get at enough PEX to make the reconnection. Annoying and inconvenient, but it happens. If we'd hired someone, we would have had to pay them to fix their mistakes, so we're good! Carry on.. . . repairing a cut main pressure polybutylene pipe that was in a wall it had no business being in AND was installed in a manner that pressed it right up against the OSB firewall I was cutting thru. . . . SURPRISE! HERE'S SOME HIGH PRESSURE WATER IN YOUR FACE.



As a follow up - I got water from the fridge this morning and I heard water dripping from behind it. I looked and one of the connections at the top I had disconnected on the initial analysis was leaking. Of course it was - I knew there were surprises in store for me!I somberly gathered the requisite tools in the garage (I hate plumbing).
The fridge in the house had developed a slow water flow - I worked on it last Monday and could not find the problem after much disassembly - but the flow picked up - not quite where it should be though - so go figure. Maybe some ice in the line.
But of course, the water valve to the fridge had to be turned off - and of course it leaked around the stem after turning it back on too much to settle down. But that's the problem with plumbing - you start with one problem and pick up at least one more on the way (I hate plumbing).
So after buying a new valve to install I tackled it this afternoon. Step one - shut off the water at the meter. Yes - I have a shut off valve that can be accessed by crawling under the house and operating an old valve that is close to 50 years old - or I can shut it off at the meter (I hate plumbing).
I shut it off at the meter. OK - didn't break or loosen anything there - no leaks so we are good/lucky. Survived that one.
Removed the old valve - cleaned off the old tape (MIP threads) and put the new valve on without hooking up the line to the fridge. Reasonable torque applied - turned valve off and water back on and the connections at the meter seem fine.
No leaks from the input connection or the open output.
Going too well - starting to get more worried here.
Cut off the old compression ferrule and hooked up the line to the new valve - giving it just a slight oomph so it was not too tight - if it leaks I can tighten it more (I hate plumbing).
Opened valve - no leaks.
I have no idea what my pipes have in store for me today but I'm pretty sure it's not over. I hate plumbing.
At least you have the satisfaction of a job well done!As a follow up - I got water from the fridge this morning and I heard water dripping from behind it. I looked and one of the connections at the top I had disconnected on the initial analysis was leaking. Of course it was - I knew there were surprises in store for me!
It had not leaked before after I disconnected it and while the water was on and the valve was leaking but now it was. My best guess is that I replaced the old valve with a quarter turn valve so it may be getting more pressure now than it was before.
I turned the new valve off - no leaks of course since I just put a new valve in - and redid the connection and it stopped leaking.
I knew it wasn't over yet - I hate plumbing.





None that I know will reuse hose by just replacing the end.Cut the eight rivets holding the inner part of the chin pan. Removed chin.
Reaching up inside, released the tabs and removed the screws holding the grill. Removed the grill.
That gave me access to the condenser.
Which then let me remove the hose.
So now I just have to wait for Monday to see if the local hydraulic repair place can/will put a new end fitting on.
Stuck here, so went to visit my parents.
None that I know will reuse hose by just replacing the end.
Why is there a union in the center of that hose is there a clearance issue?
Gathered tools to remove a fiberglass tub/shower insert. Having trouble getting the faucet handles off, so I went and bought a handle puller. If that doesn't work I will cut them off with a cutoff wheel on the grinder. Planning to replace the mixing valve anyway.
I did the same job about a year ago, not too bad even without a helper. Bought a Milwaukee M18 hackzall instead of my trusty sawzall. It was very handy in tight spots and the Sawzall is now in retirement.Gathered tools to remove a fiberglass tub/shower insert. Having trouble getting the faucet handles off, so I went and bought a handle puller. If that doesn't work I will cut them off with a cutoff wheel on the grinder. Planning to replace the mixing valve anyway.
I added a video door bell to the mix. Hopefully robbers and scam artists feel photogenicInstalled a "smart plug" so I can control the outdoor lights on the garage. For security, I was leaving them on 24x7 (garage is at our cottage) and timers were a PITA at best. Next, I will add smart bulbs to the front and rear doors for similar flexibility.
Now, if only the internet connection didn't drop all too frequently. Promises of "fibre everywhere" are 18 months in the making.....
