The VISES of Garage Journal

[Maxcustody]

Maxcustody: I'll add to wmb67's suggestion. Use a solution of Simple Green, but if you have a hot plate, or a gas BBQ, put the pot with the vise in it on a heater, and bring the Simple Green solution to a simmer. I will boil over pretty easily, so just bring it up til it steams or has a few small bubbles. Then shut off the heat and let it sit for a few hours. Most if not all the paint will just fall off the vise..
I often let the slowly cooling solution sit overnight.

I don't like a power'd wire wheel because if it is used too agressively, it can remove details and lettering, and cover faint stamped in numbers. [Like on Reed Vises: they have a production date faintly stamped on the dynamic and static portions].
I do use a small pick and hand wire brush for deep corners and around the edges of raised lettering, where repaints always tend to accumulate into a thick layer of paint.

PierceA

Thank you PierceA! So I understand correctly.............put the vise and all parts in a pot, add simple green and put on BBQ grill and heat, then let sit. I will have to buy a cheap pot, no way my wife will let me use one of hers.

 

[Shiftless]

For smaller vise parts, I use an old electric crock pot filled with undiluted Simple Green. Bring up to a hot temp for a few hours and then unplug it and let it sit overnight. That usually works. For stubborn paint, especially old factory paint, just repeat the cycle or leave it on medium all day. You can’t over do it. The SG won’t etch the cast iron or anything.
For bigger parts, of course you need a bigger pot. Check your local thrift store before buying something new. Turkey fryers work GREAT!

 

[Maxcustody]

Thanks! Started disassembly and it is stubborn. I removed the 2 bolts on the jaws, however there is still a center pin. I think it is a pin. I am trying to pry it out any easier suggestions? Thanks

 

[Maxcustody]

For smaller vise parts, I use an old electric crock pot filled with undiluted Simple Green. Bring up to a hot temp for a few hours and then unplug it and let it sit overnight. That usually works. For stubborn paint, especially old factory paint, just repeat the cycle or leave it on medium all day. You can’t over do it. The SG won’t etch the cast iron or anything.
For bigger parts, of course you need a bigger pot. Check your local thrift store before buying something new. Turkey fryers work GREAT!

Will SG also work loosening up rusted parts? Maybe I should soak everything first then try to remove the jaws? I don’t want to create new marks in the metal since it is in fairly good condition.

 

[Maxcustody]

I think I am out of luck on a date code unless you vise guru’s can decipher this one

 

[Smitty]

I think I am out of luck on a date code unless you vise guru’s can decipher this one

I would say it’s 7/9/45. That is the date that your vise was made and the jaws with the horizontal lines are correct for that time period. Your vise is referred to as a fish hook Wilton.

 

[Maxcustody]

I would say it’s 7/9/45. That is the date that your vise was made and the jaws with the horizontal lines are period correct for that time period. Your vise is referred to as a fish hook Wilton.

Thank you for this Smitty! Had no idea..............fish hook wilton. I have been trying to research it, there are so many different models.

 

[F-22]

Thank you for this Smitty! Had no idea..............fish hook wilton. I have been trying to research it, there are so many different models.

I wonder, does it use imperial or metric measurements?



These jaws are from the new York vises, I heard they might fit on some older models too. They're very similar to what Wilton started off with too. You can buy these new for relatively cheap (I think they are around 20€, but it's been a while since I contacted them for my old York). The Wiltons from that time were still very much like the original York design...

 

[Maxcustody]

I wonder, does it use imperial or metric measurements?



These jaws are from the new York vises, I heard they might fit on some older models too. They're very similar to what Wilton started off with too. You can buy these new for relatively cheap (I think they are around 20€, but it's been a while since I contacted them for my old York). The Wiltons from that time were still very much like the original York design...

Thank you, I am going to get the materials tomorrow to soak the paint off. I got most of it apart. I am going to let it sit with the jaws on and it may loosen up to be able to remove them easier. I think I will leave it natural and not repaint it.

 

[Shiftless]

Simple Green is not a rust remover.
Give that vise a hot bath and it might help loosen things up. SG will remove paint, dirt, and old grease.
When my parts come out of the hot tank, I blast them clean with an electric pressure washer. Running water and a brush works too.
Try a stiff putty knife to separate the jaw pads from the towers. There is a steel pin in the center that is probably rusty.

 

[Maxcustody]

Simple Green is not a rust remover.
Give that vise a hot bath and it might help loosen things up. SG will remove paint, dirt, and old grease.
Whenmy parts come out of the hot tank, I blast them clean with an electric pressure washer. Running water and a brush works too.

Thanks. Can I do the SG trick then soak in evapo rust? This is all new to me, thanks for the help.

 

[Shiftless]

Thanks. Can I do the SG trick then soak in evapo rust?

Absolutely yes
Soak in SG, rinse clean, dry the parts and dunk them in Evaporust.
Then brush and rinse off the black residue. Dry thoroughly. I use a heat gun. Then immediately apply boiled linseed oil while the vise is still warm. Cast iron will flash rust in minutes.

 

[Maxcustody]

Absolutely yes
Soak in SG, rinse clean, dry the parts and dunk them in Evaporust.
Then brush and rinse off the black residue. Dry thoroughly. I use a heat gun. Then immediately apply boiled linseed oil while the vise is still warm. Cast iron will flash rust in minutes.

How long should I leave them in the evapo rust? Also put the linseed on all parts correct? Is it best to brush on or use a rag soaked in the oil?

 

[Andy FitzGibbon]

Lots of engine rebuild shops have a hot parts cleaning cabinet for stripping blocks and heads. 1200 psi hot caustic soda water jets will remove grease, most paint, ect. My local place would charge me $20 to run a load (whatever I could fit in the basket). Worth it if you can find a similar deal in your area.

 

[Maxcustody]

Lots of engine rebuild shops have a hot parts cleaning cabinet for stripping blocks and heads. 1200 psi hot caustic soda water jets will remove grease, most paint, ect. My local place would charge me $20 to run a load (whatever I could fit in the basket). Worth it if you can find a similar deal in your area.

Good to know, thank you. I am in a pretty rural area I will have to check around.

 

[Shiftless]

$20 sounds like a great deal especially if you can fit more than one vise in their basket. Let them remove the paint, let it flash rust, take it home and soak in Evaporust. No time concerns with Evaporust. It works its chemical magic and then stops. If you forget and let it soak for a week, there won’t be any damage. If you use vinegar or other acids you have to check your part every few hours to remove it when the rust is gone. Otherwise the acid will attack clean metal. That’s why I like Evaporust and pay the $20 or so per gallon. It’s reusable many times over.

 

[Maxcustody]

That’s why I like Evaporust and pay the $20 or so per gallon. It’s reusable many times over.

Thanks again! Good to know it can be reused as well

 

[SkyPuncher]

I had picked this Wilton up several years ago. It is a 400S, not sure the year as one part missing was the key way. It was missing parts, and not usable, but got it cheap. Took almost 2 years to find the parts it needed at a reasonable price and put it to work. Last weekend took it back a part and gave it a fresh clean up with some different oil. As I got it, first clean up is bare metal and 3 in 1 oil, then the recent clean up black tinted oil. Really protects well, looks good and ready to go back to work!

 

[Moldyjim]

Well I just got a nice surprise. I paid $5 for a little clamp in vise last Saturday. Didn't see any logo and just figured it was some random maker. The clamp had been broken and welded back together. (?) Paint was bad with random latex and multiple colors.

Started cleaning it up and low and behold it is a Stanley Sweetheart! A number 765, patent 8-17-15
Bonus points for me.

Any ideas on the original color? Might be black.

 

[Fierljeppen]

I had picked this Wilton up several years ago. It is a 400S, not sure the year as one part missing was the key way. It was missing parts, and not usable, but got it cheap. Took almost 2 years to find the parts it needed at a reasonable price and put it to work. Last weekend took it back a part and gave it a fresh clean up with some different oil. As I got it, first clean up is bare metal and 3 in 1 oil, then the recent clean up black tinted oil. Really protects well, looks good and ready to go back to work!

First off, nice job on the restoration. Your patience is a virtue.

As far as the missing keyway and date-stamp, I think I can help you with that. Before I became a GJ member, I recall being a lurker and was following a Wilton date-stamp thread. It was very interesting and had a lot of good energy from the many participants. Long story short, GJ member "Bluebolt" started a database to make better sense of all the data coming in and I kinda got hooked into expanding on what he had.

Your Wilton 400S has it's original badge, which would be on keyway date-stamps from (1979-1995).



But wait, there's more. Wilton machinists vises with date-stamps from (1979-1984) had the date-stamp also cast on the moveable jaw, passengers side. Your vise has the extra casting and I'm sure it's the same date-stamp that would have been on the keyway as well, since it is consistent with my very expanded "Bluebolt" database.

I would bet my neighbors farm that your vise had a date-stamp of "4-81".



Let the controversy begin!

 

[Smitty]

First off, nice job on the restoration. Your patience is a virtue.

As far as the missing keyway and date-stamp, I think I can help you with that. Before I became a GJ member, I recall being a lurker and was following a Wilton date-stamp thread. It was very interesting and had a lot of good energy from the many participants. Long story short, GJ member "Bluebolt" started a database to make better sense of all the data coming in and I kinda got hooked into expanding on what he had.

Your Wilton 400S has it's original badge, which would be on keyway date-stamps from (1979-1995).



But wait, there's more. Wilton machinists vises with date-stamps from (1979-1984) had the date-stamp also cast on the moveable jaw, drivers side. Your vise has the extra casting and I'm sure it's the same date-stamp that would have been on the keyway as well, since it is consistent with my very expanded "Bluebolt" database.

I would bet my neighbors farm that your vise had a date-stamp of "4-81".



Let the controversy begin!

I have a few Wiltons, I’ll check it out.
Drivers side?

 

[Fierljeppen]

I have a few Wiltons, I’ll check it out.
Drivers side?

My bad, passenger side. I was hoping you would check, thanks.

 

[Jayman17]

I had picked this Wilton up several years ago. It is a 400S, not sure the year as one part missing was the key way. It was missing parts, and not usable, but got it cheap. Took almost 2 years to find the parts it needed at a reasonable price and put it to work. Last weekend took it back a part and gave it a fresh clean up with some different oil. As I got it, first clean up is bare metal and 3 in 1 oil, then the recent clean up black tinted oil. Really protects well, looks good and ready to go back to work!

That black oil is a very nice look! Well done.

Jay

 

[SkyPuncher]

First off, nice job on the restoration. Your patience is a virtue.

As far as the missing keyway and date-stamp, I think I can help you with that. Before I became a GJ member, I recall being a lurker and was following a Wilton date-stamp thread. It was very interesting and had a lot of good energy from the many participants. Long story short, GJ member "Bluebolt" started a database to make better sense of all the data coming in and I kinda got hooked into expanding on what he had.

Your Wilton 400S has it's original badge, which would be on keyway date-stamps from (1979-1995).



But wait, there's more. Wilton machinists vises with date-stamps from (1979-1984) had the date-stamp also cast on the moveable jaw, passengers side. Your vise has the extra casting and I'm sure it's the same date-stamp that would have been on the keyway as well, since it is consistent with my very expanded "Bluebolt" database.

I would bet my neighbors farm that your vise had a date-stamp of "4-81".



Let the controversy begin!

That is a great tid bit of info that I was not aware of, Thanks a ton!

Thanks Jay, after about 2 days it sets up and is good to go. The same company has a clear wax you can put over the oil for added protection, but I have not tried it yet.

 

[Smitty]

My bad, passenger side. I was hoping you would check, thanks.

I only found one vise that has the same tag as the one you posted earlier. It’s a C0 but it doesn’t have a date stamp on the keyway.

 

[chenry318]

Picked up these two in an auction the other day. Chas Parker 985 “Big Bear” and a Prentiss 162.
Now to just find time to clean them up.
The Prentiss was stuck but after only a few minutes with some pb blaster and a few taps from a brass hammer it started moving and after 20 minutes I was able to get it completely apart.
The Chas Parker dynamic jaw has been brazed back together unfortunately but looks to have been done fairly well. It is still my largest vise so far and should suite my needs.

 

[ranger08]

picked up a reed 104 (feb 1920), it was covered head to toe in almost 3mm of grease crud, i removed most of it with petrol to find what appears to be the original paint job underneath, black with red writing

 

[Snip's]

Today I finished cleaning my recently acquired Parker 974B....
The finish I came up with is 25% BLO + 25% Mineral Spirits + 50% Flood Penetrol, then baked it on my BBQ @ 350 for 1 hr and then slowly cool down to ambient temperature. I decided not to grind all the warts and bumps on the vise as it will be a working vise and not a shelf queen....

Let me introduce you to BBQ Parker....

 

[Maxcustody]

I started the resto project yesterday on my Wilton. Picked up 3 gallons of simple green and have it sitting in a pot soaking off the grease and grime and helping strip the old paint off. Raining all day today so I think I will let it soak all day long...........................more to come.

 

[Trapps]

Palmgren 000 quasi restoration. As received:







5 minutes in a bath of Simple Green & water (1:5) then out to disassemble.



Then all the pieces back in for about 15 minutes.



Thoroughly dried and coated with a hit of Liquid Wrench Dry Lube for temporary protection.




Following the Simple Green cleaning, the parts all had a date with one or more of the following: nylon brush, wire wheel, white lithium grease and Johnson's Paste Wax. I tried to preserve the original paint as much as possible. I used some of my older weapons cleaning tools to clean out the threads and bores:













I find it interesting that heavy metal from Chicago in the 40's, 50's and 60's used similar, non-typical, green paint.



Based on this 1959 ad from Popular Mechanics and some markings on the vise, I believe this vise to be of a mid/late 50's build.



The finished item is buttery smooth and feels very solid. I'll build a small shelf for it and mount it on the wall near my drill press and main vise.

 

[Vette60]

Hi All.

Goofy question here, so I hope you will all take a look and let me know what is going on.

I have my late Father-in-law's 4" jaw Wilton Vise. Simple vise - nothing like the bullet or anything. But, The front jaws are wider than than the back jaws by about 1/8" inch? Why? I have some photos attached below.

It's pretty beat with many years of abuse, but it works fine for my needs. Just curious about the different jaw widths...

Thanks for the time and thoughts...

 

[BeardedOne]

Just received a set of jaws for my C0 in the mail today. Thanks so very much, autopts!

I want the jaws to sit a little proud of the body so there's going to have to be a little material removal on the right side.

I also need to figure out the best way to straighten the jaws so they are parallel vertically and when closed.

 

[Outlawmws]

My new Vise find today:

A 2-1/2" Long C Craftsman DP vise, In decent shape too! No drill divots at all! I'll clean the grunge and surface rust off, probably paint the as-cast surfaces dark blue, and put it with the Long C DP!

 

[Patrickm82]

Finished up my prentiss 21 this morning and got this Parker 5X from the local scrap yard. It’s in great shape, jaws still have decent bite to them. Started cleaning it up earlier had to use a small floor jack to break it apart. It’s amazing how tough old crusty grease is. Not sure if I’m going to leave it raw or paint it. There were some faint remnants of dark green paint on it. Does anyone know what some original colors of Parker vises were?

 

[PWRstroke_smoke]

Fresh Craigslist find resto
Wilton 820 2" baby bullet vise with PowRarm.
Came mounted to a very heavy 12x12x1" steel plate. Cut a neoprene work mat and a flexible nylon work mat for the work surface.

 

[ejot]

Not sure if I’m going to leave it raw or paint it. There were some faint remnants of dark green paint on it. Does anyone know what some original colors of Parker vises were?

Have seen both black and light green Parkers in what appear to be original paint. Also feel that I've seen either a convincing pic of, or a reference to, dark green as well,... but can't recall exactly.

 

[Shiftless]

IMHO, if you decide to paint it, the dark green would look good. Black oil looks good too. But I always say, your vise…your color.

 

[FezBaron]

picked up a reed 104 (feb 1920), it was covered head to toe in almost 3mm of grease crud, i removed most of it with petrol to find what appears to be the original paint job underneath, black with red writing

It's great to see that you've uncovered what appear to be the original colours of this old Reed. Reed vices don't come up often here in NZ, though I do have a very rusty No. 107 currently awaiting restoration. By the way, what part of the country are you in? (I'm in Hamilton).

 

[ViceRoy2030]

Got lucky this past Thursday on an American Scale "Red Seal" 25. Started cleaning it up and couldn't stop, all by hand using a 2" putty knife, machinist pick and a wire brush. Thought about painting it, it's still a possibility someday, but decided to let the patina and original character show. She has a broken and very nicely repaired foot, missing pipe jaws but other than that in perfect condition. Fluid Film coated.

6-inch jaws, 196 pounds of American metal.

 

[Patrickm82]

Have seen both black and light green Parkers in what appear to be original paint. Also feel that I've seen either a convincing pic of, or a reference to, dark green as well,... but can't recall exactly.

Yeah I went with a hunter green, I’m not sure I like it though it is a little lighter than I wanted but it was the darkest I could find. I will post some pics tomorrow