Garage door beam reversal

[wesst]

Just reaching out to see if someone smarter than me can explain if a garage door safety beam can be reversed to simply prevent the door from opening if the beam is broken.

I have a unique location in my garage for an auto lift, but unfortunately the garage will not open with a car on the lift. It’s not a problem as I have a door on each end of the garage, but I have been blessed with 4 kids and I am attempting to prevent them from opening the door with a car on the lift.

My thought process is to purchase another set of beams and place them on the walls so the car would break the beam when on the lift and prevent accidental opening.

For added measure, I have installed a hidden light switch to disable power to the opener, but figured I would look into a beam option redundancy.

Thank you in advance for any insight anyone may be able to provide!

 

[dave*99]

Rig up your own beam sensor to control the 120V power to the opener. The raised car should block the beam.

This unit might work - but it only switches 3amps. You may add a higher power relay controlled by this sensor to run the opener. Or locate a higher current sensor unit.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WV4JCX/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[ybnormal]

I don't see the problem...
"unfortunately the garage will not open with a car on the lift. .....I am attempting to prevent them from opening the door with a car on the lift."

 

[PCustoms]

I don't see the problem...
"unfortunately the garage will not open with a car on the lift. .....I am attempting to prevent them from opening the door with a car on the lift."

Sounds like the car on the lift is in the way of the door.

So he wants to automatically "lock out" the door if the lift is up, preventing it from opening and damaging everything.

 

[ybnormal]

Sounds like the car on the lift is in the way of the door.

So he wants to automatically "lock out" the door if the lift is up, preventing it from opening and damaging everything.

yes, but he says:
1) that's the way he wants it
2) it already doesn't open when it's that way

if he is talking about the lift in a specific position then he needs to clearly say so

 

[PoorUB]

Put a limit switch on the lift that is closed only when the lift is all the way down and kill power to the opener.

 

[PCustoms]

yes, but he says:
1) that's the way he wants it
2) it already doesn't open when it's that way

if he is talking about the lift in a specific position then he needs to clearly say so

Maybe some edits will help

I have a unique location in my garage for an auto lift, but unfortunately the garage door will not open cannot be opened with a car on the lift. It’s not a problem as I have a door on each end of the garage, but I have been blessed with 4 kids and I am attempting to prevent them from opening the door with a car on the lift.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

With my openers breaking the beam does not prevent opening. Put a switch on the lift that interrupts power to the opener unless it is down.

 

[wssix99]

Put a limit switch on the lift that is closed only when the lift is all the way down and kill power to the opener.

I like this or another similar option would be to use electrical contactors and cut the power to the door openers when your cutoff switch for the lift is on. (Lift On = Door Off. Lift Off = Door On.)

 

[jack stand]

Move the switch higher than your tallest kid can reach.
You could replace the button switch with a keypad.

 

[ybnormal]

Maybe some edits will help

wesst said:
I have a unique location in my garage for an auto lift, but unfortunately the garage door will not open cannot be opened with a car on the lift. It’s not a problem as I have a door on each end of the garage, but I have been blessed with 4 kids and I am attempting to prevent them from opening the door with a car on the lift....in the up or down position?

 

[loganb]

A Normally Closed(NC) limit switch controlling the power to the opener is how I would do it. I'd position it so when the lift comes off the ground the switch opens and power to the opener is removed. Setting it so that the power is removed when the lift hits a certain height based on the height of the car stored or worked on the most sets up for an issue down the road when something taller is put on it and the door is opened with the lift low enough the switch hasn't been tripped yet.

 

[rayra]

He doesn't have to kill the 120V to the opener, he jus thas to interrupt the low-volt wire from the garage door wall switch.

I'd consider a simple AC thermostat -style lockbox that fits over the garage door activation switch, and just lock it shut when there's a vehicle on the lift, barring access to the switch.

Then again there's always a simple talk with the kids. OR the OP not leaving the car in the air when he's not actively working on it.

 

[PoorUB]

He doesn't have to kill the 120V to the opener, he jus thas to interrupt the low-volt wire from the garage door wall switch.

What about any wireless remotes? He needs to kill power to the opener.

 

[PoorUB]

I like this or another similar option would be to use electrical contactors and cut the power to the door openers when your cutoff switch for the lift is on. (Lift On = Door Off. Lift Off = Door On.)

That requires remembering to kill power to the lift.

A limit switch on the lift pretty much takes car of any human error, but there is a slight possiblity of the switch failing.

 

[Uncle murph]

Move the switch higher than your tallest kid can reach.
You could replace the button switch with a keypad.

This!

 

[wesst]

Thanks for all the responses. For those of you that had trouble understanding my explanation, I apologize for the confusion.

If the garage door is activated to open while a car is elevated upon the lift, the garage door will contact said car resulting in potential damage.

Again, I thank those that provided responses, and will look into the mentioned options.

 

[BillK]

if he is talking about the lift in a specific position then he needs to clearly say so

I think that anyone who has any common sense would understand that he meant with the car in the raised position. Having the car on the lift but on the ground is no different than not having the lift at all and has nothing to do with the garage door opening.

 

[cvairwerks]

Easiest way to control it, is pull the emergency toggle to detach the opener from the door. 100% failsafe, other than unplugging the opener.

 

[Youngandfree]

Easiest way to control it, is pull the emergency toggle to detach the opener from the door. 100% failsafe, other than unplugging the opener.

That's my suggestion

 

[ybnormal]

I think that anyone who has any common sense would understand that he meant with the car in the raised position. Having the car on the lift but on the ground is no different than not having the lift at all and has nothing to do with the garage door opening.

I wasn't aware that mindreaders existed. Common sense tells me I shouldn't believe in mindreaders.

go back and re-read his first post,
"but unfortunately the garage will not open with a car on the lift" <---- if it won't open with a car on the lift then WHAT's THE PROBLEM?

it is not until post #17 that he graciously clarifies and makes clear the situation.

 

[Walkers]

The best answer is to use this as a reason to build a bigger shop!

 

[tyromeo55]

I only skimmed the replies so if this has been mentioned please disregard. Most openers have a provision to "LOCK" them out. The switch is typically on the interior pushpad. If you post the operator model we could help look it over. If it was me.... Id install a magnetic contact on the lift that is wired to this "LOCK" inhibit input. No messing with contactors / control power or worry that you might kill the opener PCB.

 

[dave*99]

Time to break out the ole garage stretcher.

 

[Youngandfree]

I wasn't aware that mindreaders existed. Common sense tells me I shouldn't believe in mindreaders.

go back and re-read his first post,
"but unfortunately the garage will not open with a car on the lift" <---- if it won't open with a car on the lift then WHAT's THE PROBLEM?

it is not until post #17 that he graciously clarifies and makes clear the situation.

It was plenty clear to everyone else prior to post 17.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Looks like most people understand the issue. Seems like many focus o the kids. I have no kids at my house but would still want to avoid damage no matter who hit the opener including myself, my wife or if it was an accident, lapse of memory etc.
A variety of switch mechanisms and connections could be made to work none of them involve the safety beam. I definitely would want a one step/switch solution that automatically happens when the lift is raised.

 

[no704]

Put a magnetic reed switch or a prox switch on the lift to kill power to the opener.

 

[dave*99]

I only skimmed the replies so if this has been mentioned please disregard. Most openers have a provision to "LOCK" them out. The switch is typically on the interior pushpad. If you post the operator model we could help look it over. If it was me.... Id install a magnetic contact on the lift that is wired to this "LOCK" inhibit input. No messing with contactors / control power or worry that you might kill the opener PCB.

Over the many years I've had a number of openers. The LOCK button only disables radio remote control of the door. The push button still works.
As for finding a wire associated with that lock circuit - to inhibit operation - of the radio remotes - well at least on my current Chamberlain openers, that is unlikely. The lock function is in a display panel menu.

Cutting power to the door opener is often more accessible.

 

[logical]

A Normally Closed(NC) limit switch controlling the power to the opener is how I would do it. I'd position it so when the lift comes off the ground the switch opens and power to the opener is removed. Setting it so that the power is removed when the lift hits a certain height based on the height of the car stored or worked on the most sets up for an issue down the road when something taller is put on it and the door is opened with the lift low enough the switch hasn't been tripped yet.

I raise my lift all the time with nothing on it and don't need or want the doors to stop working. I don't think that is a complete solution. If you want to avoid doors hitting cars you need your sensors to look for cars in the path of the door. It's always safer to sense things directly.

 

[tyromeo55]

Over the many years I've had a number of openers. The LOCK button only disables radio remote control of the door. The push button still works.
As for finding a wire associated with that lock circuit - to inhibit operation - of the radio remotes - well at least on my current Chamberlain openers, that is unlikely. The lock function is in a display panel menu.

Cutting power to the door opener is often more accessible.

From about 2000 to 2020 I worked the family business. Commercial electrical contracting (I currently hold an unlimited state license which is as high as we go here). We also own, manage and service a healthy qty of rental properties (approx 450 doors).

Id say I'm fairly qualified to answer the OP's question.

True. Not all operators qualify for my solution. I didn't say they would.
Not true - the lock feature only locks out the remotes on every unit ever made.

Like originally suggested I'd have get some model numbers (and possibly serial number) to confirm and offer any solution.

In your case, I dont have a model or serial for the head but Id venture a bet you could co-attach another interior pad like the G78LM and gain a hard button. IF so ... ID put it on the ceiling right next to the head. Intercept the lock button and wire down to a heavy duty magnetic switch. This solution wold work best on a genie (OHD.co is same). a 39165r would be ideal

Yup cutting line voltage is more accessible. I'm not getting the feeling that anyone asking how to do this type of mod is someone that can, should or would need to be messing with it.

 

[ybnormal]

It was plenty clear to everyone else prior to post 17.

I had no idea the mindreading chromosome gene was so far spread thru the gene pool.

 

[PoorUB]

Mount this in such a way a car in the air blocks the light beam. Connect this to run a contactor/relay to kill the power to the opener.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K17L95V/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[PoorUB]

I think that anyone who has any common sense would understand that he meant with the car in the raised position. Having the car on the lift but on the ground is no different than not having the lift at all and has nothing to do with the garage door opening.

I had no issue with what he was asking in post #1.

 

[dave*99]

From about 2000 to 2020 I worked the family business. Commercial electrical contracting (I currently hold an unlimited state license which is as high as we go here). We also own, manage and service a healthy qty of rental properties (approx 450 doors).

Id say I'm fairly qualified to answer the OP's question.

True. Not all operators qualify for my solution. I didn't say they would.
Not true - the lock feature only locks out the remotes on every unit ever made.

Like originally suggested I'd have get some model numbers (and possibly serial number) to confirm and offer any solution.

In your case, I dont have a model or serial for the head but Id venture a bet you could co-attach another interior pad like the G78LM and gain a hard button. IF so ... ID put it on the ceiling right next to the head. Intercept the lock button and wire down to a heavy duty magnetic switch. This solution wold work best on a genie (OHD.co is same). a 39165r would be ideal

Yup cutting line voltage is more accessible. I'm not getting the feeling that anyone asking how to do this type of mod is someone that can, should or would need to be messing with it.

Not sure I see how that would work with the G78LM (and I had one of those on one of my openers.)

This is taken from the instructions for the G78LM:

The Genie uses a lock switch - not a button.

 

[tyromeo55]

True. Not all operators qualify for my solution. I didn't say they would.

Id venture a bet you could co-attach another interior pad like the G78LM and gain a hard button

Not sure I see how that would work with the G78LM (and I had one of those on one of my openers.)

Like i said . no guarantee and venture a guess. Obviously I haven't taken the time to design a solution. Without an exact model number why would I spend the time? Still, ya got me..... IF the OP has a Chamberlain (or its sister brands) he could not just intercept the "lock" button he would also have to intercept the main button. Still pretty easy and no need to mess with a contactor/relay or line voltage. Another acceptable path could be to put the wired unit on the ceiling and get a wireless wall unit to put on the wall. Lots of details to iron out but still easily deployed by a novice once they are.

amendment: "Co-attaching" multiple WIRED buttons. Never tried to do this. No idea if that would work or not.

The Genie uses a lock switch - not a button.

Yep, A latching switch would pair up nicely with a magnetic contact. The Genie wall station I mentioned DOES kill the hard button too. Like I said " a 39165r would be ideal "


As long as the person doing the "upgrade" is competent I dont hate the idea of killing the main power to the unit. The frequency of use in a home situation is likely a non concern. Just offering additional insight. Probably should of just left well enough alone. Been a member here for over a year and this is my 4th post. reading this thread its looking like there are a lot of people who just like to complain or argue.

 

[ybnormal]

I had no issue with what he was asking in post #1.

neither did I as it seemed to be APPARENT but when there are contradictory statements, I take nothing for granted and always ask for clarification. I'm NOT a mindreader.

 

[Youngandfree]

I had no idea the mindreading chromosome gene was so far spread thru the gene pool.

Don't get down on yourself. Not everyone was blessed with the gift of deductive reasoning.

 

[mike93lx]

Might be a good opportunity to check the pressure settings on the door opener. You should be able to adjust how hard it pushes before reversing and you may be able to get it soft enough that damage isn't a big concern depending on what part of the door is going to contact the car

 

[dave*99]

If someone really wants to dig in to the communications between the motor unit and the control panel of a modern GDO, I found this interesting link.

What is the name of the protocol(s) used to let an automatic garage door opener know which button I've pushed on the wall control panel?

The wired wall control panel in my garage has only 2 wires connected to it. Yet somehow it acts different when I push the big "door" button than when I push the "light" button or the "lock" button....

electronics.stackexchange.com

If someone wants to add a simple remote power switch to the GDO - and perhaps locate it on the lift such that you could kill the GDO power while standing at the lift controls, there are wired and wireless solutions:

Wireless:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004S9AI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Wired:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PY8B8CZ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[dave*99]

I'll add the because while we do not know what GDO the OP has, these threads hang around and a sound technical discussion may help a future reader.

If we are talking about a modern chamberlain GDO - there are issues with this suggestion:

Still, ya got me..... IF the OP has a Chamberlain (or its sister brands) he could not just intercept the "lock" button he would also have to intercept the main button. Still pretty easy and no need to mess with a contactor/relay or line voltage. Another acceptable path could be to put the wired unit on the ceiling and get a wireless wall unit to put on the wall. Lots of details to iron out but still easily deployed by a novice once they are.

The Chamberlain lock button actively sends a command to the motor unit via the microcontroller in the control panel using a pulse width modulated signal. The very modern units put this lock function in a menu screen in the control panel LCD display. And these functions are available on a cell phone app.

Prior generations have a physical button - but it still connects to a microcontroller and it toggles the lock function on and off usually by being depressed for 2 seconds. There is no simple way to use an on/off microswitch to replicate that function. And putting the wired control panel on the ceiling ------ would eliminate your ability to engage the lock function from the control panel.

If you intercept the "lock" button, it does not lock the motor out from opening the door on the Chamberlains. It just prohibits you from toggling the lock state of the radio remote lock out from on to off.

Further - any attachment of long wires connecting a remote microswitch to the part of the circuitry in the control panel where the lock button connects to the microcontroller risks radio frequency interference being injected into the control panel.

As for intercepting the main button - yup that can be done. But again - with a modern unit, coupled to a simple microswitch, you would effectively kill power to the control panel and communications between it and the motor unit. The control panel shows the status of the lock function, so that would not be visible. And if you did not know with confidence that the lock function was engaged, you risk the radio remote control still being active.

I suspect there are GDO's that would be compatible with your solution. This discussion is presented in an effort to be complete so a reader can take stock of both their situation and capabilities to make an informed decision.