Recent content by 1956chevy210

Thanks for the replies everyone. It sounds like the #1 thing I could do different is use a LOT more water. I am using water, hooked directly to the water port on the saw as it should be, but I don't have it on full blast and that likely isn't washing away the slurry enough as several people have...

I don't have the whole slab out, but using a wire to check the depth of the cut, it's as shallow as 4" and as deep as 4.5 inches. My 14" blade is rated at 4&9/16" deep, so I doubt a 10" blade would go deep enough. Right?

As an add-on piece of info, I'm cutting about 7 feet at a time (because my 2x8 weighted guide board to help me keep a straight line is about 8 feet long). So I'll make a cut about 1/4" to 1/2 inch deep to score the surface, then go back and go deeper by about 1.5", then another 1.5", and then...

Yeah apparently it's a thing. You use the edge of the file to tap on the blade to remove glaze and expose the diamonds. I'm cutting out a section of my floor because it is too thin to install a 2 post lift. 14' by 5'. It's currently about 4 inches thick. 56chev

So I'm cutting my shop floor and it started out pretty good but now my blade really isn't cutting very fast. My tool is a Bauer 14 inch wet/dry 15A corded masonry saw and my blade is a Hercules All-Cut segmented 14" blade rated four out of 4 "dots" for cured concrete or 3 out of 4 dots for cured...

Well I didn't get much done today. I drained a small cup of heating fluid and found that it didn't freeze at 20-25 degrees but did at 8 degrees. So it has some antifreeze in it. It also has a reddish (not rusty) color like it should so that's good. But it makes it hazardous waste in large...

I totally get your point now and see my error, thank you. 56chev

I agree with you, it won't be easy to avoid damaging the lines. In floor heat ***** for a job like this. But the only other option is to lose my in floor heat altogether by abandoning the system, or lose a large amount of heating capability making the system burn even more propane than it...

I really like your idea of going all the way across. It seems like it would help ensure that the pads are at the exact same height since the concrete would self-level in a continuous pit rather than 2 separate ones. Yeah, in floor heat ***** if you want to put in a lift! But everything is...

I'm planning on doing it myself. I'll buy instead of renting. More costly, but then I'm not rushed.

Well, hopefully tomorrow. I made a post back in February about having to cut my floor because it's just not thick enough and the heating hoses in the floor are too close to where the bolts need to go. I have a week off from work and I'm ready to start cutting! What a job this is going to be...

Hello all, Question: Is it possible to replace a garage door end bearing plate without releasing/removing the coil springs? Reason: So one of the big doors on my shop has a bad end bearing. It's completely shot and the hole is waddled out to the point that the bottom of the door doesn't sit...

Hi folks, The lift I already bought is a Tuxedo TP11KC-DX 11,000 lb, clear floor, 2-post lift. I bought it already because this is the same lift I had at my last place and I got a good deal on a barely used lift. My heaviest vehicle right now is a 2005 GMC Sierra 2500HD ext cab short bed 4x4. I...

Thanks for all of the replies guys! Here I'll try to add some more fidelity on what I'm working with. First, the thickness of the floor: I drilled 4 test holes in my floor. Two 1/4" test holes far away from where I want my lift just out of curiosity which were each 4.25" deep. This is the bare...

So my shop floor isn't thick enough for concrete anchors so I'm going to go the hard route: Cut out sections of the floor where the lift posts go and pour them deeper. Yay! More on this some other day in a new post lol. My biggest problem is that I have in-floor heat. My system uses 9 separate...