Recent content by 340RedCoupe

I would do a cost comparison on 2x4 walls vs 2x6 I went with 2x6 wasn’t that much more and the better insulation benefit is nice. As far as the sheeting overlaying the block maybe consider PT plywood for the bottom couple of feet unless I missed it you didn’t say how tall the walls are if taller...

Can’t help you decide on the height that’s up to you but I would suggest put you header at the top of your wall and fill in below with the framing. In the future you decide to change the door height to any decided need all options are available. Much easier not to have to move a header.

Don’t buy any wood from HD if you can avoid it, it’s junk. Go to a real lumberyard, at least around here (Cleveland, OH) its cheaper and the quality is miles ahead of HD.

Well I saw the finished job yesterday and it looked good. They are happy with it so that is all counts. Thanks for all all the input and comments this is a good place to come for knowledge.

They are happy with it. I will see it today. They are not as critical as I am, by doing most things myself I look at other peoples work with a questioning attitude.

This is my daughter and son in law’s house. I have not seen it in person. Now I find out the color is on there a light slate I think. The contractor is there now power washing so I hope it cleans up. It’s just not the way I do things I guess. Time will tell. Thanks for the responses.

Thanks for all the replies. I feel a little better about this job but I still have two concerns. I cannot believe a surface stain applied two days after a pour will have the same longevity as something done at the same time as the pour/stamping process. The other issue is all the splashes on the...

Daughter and son in law had a patio poured today. It was stamped with the pattern they wanted. Nice day maybe 65 degree high. The schedule is cut tomorrow and I assume remove forms . (The forms are still on) Then color the next day. I always thought strip forms and cut same day if poured early...

I misspoke about using “heat source”. NG is the only way to go. I was thinking about sizing, with a boiler or tankless water heater, not energy source. The mini split is very high efficiency and will be only used for cooling in summer and heat early fall and late spring.

I have not selected a heat source for the radiant as of yet. I’m still in the insulation stage and I have plumbing work to do for the bathroom. I do have a 1” gas line installed to the building but not connected yet. My plan is to finish this summer.

They are steel,D/A them and spray with automotive paint. I got mine at Eastwood they stock premixed colors and look great when done. I wax mine once a year with the same stuff I use on the cars. I did the ones on the house 40 years ago and they still look like the day I sprayed them.

Thanks again for all the replies and suggestions. Sorry for the delay in posting, retired life is very busy, I can't imagine I used to also have time for a full-time job. (But I don't miss it) So here we go with questions and observations. I have done SOME research and educating myself on these...

I’m currently considering a Mr Cool with a pre-fabbed up line set so no needed vacuum or charging required. I like a nice clean install but some extra length to deal with on the line set is not the end of the world.

Thanks for all the reply’s. You guys have convinced me to try this. I’m sure I will have more questions along the way with the install.

Is it really possible to DIY a Mini Split? The facts: New construction 750 sq ft 12' ceilings Radiant in the floor, no hot water source yet Mini split will be used for bump up heat and A/C Me: retired done many construction projects for myself complete rewire and replumb of house, no fire or...