Recent content by 70R

A picture of the sink I added. It only drains to the dry well just west of the garage, so I used an air admittance valve to keep the plumbing simple. It's tucked up under the sink, right below the faucet, so I wasn't able to get a picture of it. The electric water heater can be seen under the...

I decided to convert an old, commercial workbench into a transmission/differential tear-down table. I had a top made by a company that makes stair pans. They hemmed the top edge, I only had to weld the corners closed: Not the prettiest welds, but they won't leak: I drilled a hole near the...

Pictures of the loop driveway going in. We added a concrete pad on the east side of the garage to store our RV. I also had them add a gravel pad on the west side of the garage to store my car trailer. Forming and pouring the areas around the garage: I decided to lay conduit under the...

Finally getting around to posting some more pictures. Added a top to the workbench. I started with standard 2x material, ripped them as required, planed the edges, then joined them with biscuits. Once the glue dried, I sanded and cut the ends to make a finished top. I also used a 1x4 as a...

Not that I can see. It is a standard efficiency on-demand water heater, so it isn't a condensing design. The exhaust has a drain line for condensation from the exhaust gases, and I put a loop trap in the tube as recommended. I've never seen any condensation in that, either.

Hi tommyp, You may be right on the pump being on the small side. I tried to take all of the losses into account, including the takagi jr. I also compared the overall head values when running 3/4" vs 1" to the manifolds, and went with 1". I did remove the pump's check valve. From memory, the...

Since the existing wall switch controls the light and fan, and in conduit, it should be pretty easy. Connect one terminal of the new switch to the hot on the existing wall switch. The other terminal of the new wall switch connects to a new wire pulled from the wall switch box to the ceiling...

I've done this several times, for the same reason you are - to add a second switch for a fan. As mentioned above, if they used mud rings initially, cutting the drywall is all that is needed. No oversized switch plates are required if you cut carefully. Remove the switch and hold the new ring...

Not sure of your logistics, but if you have a neutral to the outlet, you can put one of these before the outlet and it gives you two addition circuits...

Tons of good info here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49557 And see post #31 in my build thread.

You need to determine how much gas will be needed in the garage. Depending on the heater size, that 75' might require a significant upsizing of the pipe. Since your gas service will be new, it might make sense to look into getting a 2# system. I ended up going that route with no charge from...

Hi Smuth10, No problem. Just my way of giving back to this forum. The manifold gauges are temperature only, not very precise and hard to read. I oriented the unions to allow easiest access to the ball valves, and that sometimes put the gauges at a poor viewing angle. I also wanted to see...

I put the details in post #31 in my build: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181127 Hopefully it helps! Joe

Here are the details of the radiant heat design: - I used the trial version of LoopCAD. - Original plan was to build a partition wall between the east and west bays, so a keep-out was put there. Manifolds were also setup to give two zones. I ended up scrapping that idea - no partition wall and...

Thanks! The space behind the boxes isn't for anything in particular - I decided I wanted the top to be a certain size and made the frame to match. I'm still trying to think of a creative use for the space... The room in the attic is about 12 x 15. Doing a hip roof (to match the existing...