Recent content by 73 Mustang Bill

If I were doing it ouside in PA (I grew up north of Pgh), I think I'd dig down below the frost line and pour the width of the lift plus some (10 feet or more) as one continuous pour, with steel inside. A few buck more in concrete, but it would be a firm foundation to keep 3000-6000 lns of steel...

Well, you'd have the hoses hanging down from the ceiling all the time.

I considered going overhead out of my cabinet, and had started collecting supplies needed. However, after using my MaxJax for a while, I decided it wasn't worth the effort. If I'm working on wheels, brakes, etc., then the hoses don't really get in the way under the car. I will be doing some...

Unfair comparison, since that lifts 15,000 lb, whereas the MaxJax only lifts 6,000. All four of my cars don't weigth 15,000.

When I taped off my garage, the windows were in the 'clean' area. I wish I had run a fan blowing air into the area to create a positive pressure in there. Maybe that would have helped keep some fo the dust out.

I had this done, at the cost of the builder (probably charged to the concrete sub though). What a MESS they made. I taped plastic from floor to ceiling, taping every inch. One cabinet even had an extra layer of plastic over it, and yet concrete dust still was able to get in everywhere. When I...

I'm a new MaxJax'er and I love it. I spent some time today flushing brakes and replacing fuel lines on a mid-engine car.It would have been a LOT harder with a scissor lift or center post lift. Just something to think about.

Oh, something that I encountered on first use worth mentioning. One of my pins for the arms was tough to get in. I've seen other guys compaint about this before. One complained that he had to hammer his pin in. Instead, run a semi-circular or round file in there a few strokes. There was probably...

Yeah, the Lotus has a center backbone. You can probably find your lift points in the Owner's manual, or by checking with an online user's group. On my car, the rear lift point is a point on the body just in front of the rear wheels. The fiberglass (or 'glassfibre' in the Queen's english) is...

As required, I am submitting my picture of the first car in the air on my new MaxJax. Also have a picture there of any idea that I had to make the legs, so that you know it's reached its full extension. In the first picture, you can also see the adjustable roll-around table that I bought at...

Thanks. I've learned a lot by reading, so I thought I'd give back. It's also a nice place to keep track of what I did. I had to go back and review my writeup on my floor, as I need to repeat it here pretty soon.

I was working on that when you posted. I plan to run my hoses overhead, so that's the next project. I also want to start a new thread on planning your MaxJax placement....later.

I haven't seen another discussion of epoxying in the anchors, so I thought I'd offer up my experience. I was drilled 6 holes for epoxy, and 7 holes for drop-in anchors, so I used tape on the floor to indicate how deep the hole was supposed to be. I also marked on the tape which was the last...

I don't have a drill bit long enough to get through 12 inches of concrete, and my drill had enough trouble with going down 6 inches. I've already set the drop-in anchors as well, and all of them took nicely. If I have problems with them in the future, I'll just have to deal with that at that...

My slab was originally 3-3/8" deep, but since it was built less than 2 years ago, I was able to get the builder to repair it. They took out a piece 4' x 21' and pour that 12 inches deep, with rebar in the bottom 6 inches, 3500 psi. I used epoxy on the anchors that were 6 inches from the edge...