Recent content by 75slant6

I think this is the route that I’ll end up taking. I do have a some 6/3 wire on hand as well, but that’s designated for wiring another subpanel to power my welding/fab room. I don’t currently have a 220 welder, so I’ll just keep the 40amp breaker in mind when it comes time to buying a bigger welder.

So essentially, my options would be 1. Run the 8/3 for the welder plug alone on a 50 amp breaker, then run a separate 12/2 for the 120 outlets and a 10/2 for the lift. 2. Do the same setup as TurnipTruck but power the subpanel off a 40 amp breaker instead of a 50. 3. Buy 6/3 wire

Ok, so I’m researching lift install and I came across this post by TurnipTruck and I was thinking about doing the same thing. My question is, I’ve got some 8/3 NM-B wire on hand. Could this same setup be run with 8/3 instead of 6/3? It’d be about a 50’ run from main panel to the sub panel on...

I know this is an old post but I’m researching lift install and I’ve got some 8/3 NM-B wire on hand. Could this same setup be run with 8/3 instead of 6/3? It’d be about a 50’ run from main panel to the sub panel.

That’s something I hadn’t thought of on the mini shops! However, on my actual shop, I do have ventilation through the soffit and out the ridge. I’ve put the mini shop experiment on the back burner while building the shop, so when I start doing more experiments with those, one of the things I’ll...

That’s alright, that’s definitely the biggest thing that I’ve been working on, is getting to the point quicker and not rambling or going down rabbit trails so much. Believe it or not, I edited out like 10-15 minutes of video. As I was editing I was like “this really isn’t important information...

Again, I’m open to tips and pointers. That first clip was a rough one, I’ll admit. I was literally on the verge of overheating and had to get in the house and cool off.

I could add about 3” of blown in cellulose in the ceiling for $1500, which I may end up doing in the future if it seems necessary/worth it. I bought a mess of 2” foam board for $1800, otherwise I maybe have done cellulose in the whole shop

Yeah I agree that spray foam is often times a superior way to go. Biggest down side is the higher cost up front. If we were planning on staying at this place long, long term, I’d definitely be pushing to foam the shop.

Yeah that’s what FL Guy and I were just discussing in pm as well, his eaves and ridge were sealed up tight, so I figure that was a big contributor to the condensation.

Yikes! Well that’s definitely concerning. My initial plans were to spray foam the shop but to do 2” on the walls and roof would be $19k. One thing that might help me is since I’ll have a 2x4 between the radiant barrier and the siding, I think I’m going to put house wrap on the 2x4’s before...

I had both thermometers in the house and sitting out in the shade before I put them in the buildings and they read dead accurate of each other. You have a point on the scaled down difference, for time and cost, I won’t be building bigger test buildings, but I will be doing a test later on...

I did keep a 1.5” air gap between the radiant barrier and and the wood siding and metal roof.

Yeah I’m still working on getting to the point quicker on things and with the ridiculous heat I was working in for half the video was affecting my train of thought. Any pointers on improvement?

Hey there guys n gals, have y’all ever wondered if adding a radiant barrier to your shop build is worth it? Well, I’m in the middle of building my shop, will be insulating it with 2” foam board and was debating on whether it’d be worth spending the extra $1500 to add radiant barrier as well, so...