Recent content by 850xpeps

Any crawl space I’ve built for someone. Hasn’t required a dehumidifier. I put a layer of poly down and then pour 3-4” of lean mix cement to cap it off. Dry and clean. No sand dust or other ****. There hasn’t been a need, as some haven’t, piped in ax/heat and some have. The radiating heat off the...

Vents wouldn’t be code if it was a conditioned space because it becomes part of the house.

Might as well own a house trailer and deal with frozen pipes. The insulation around the crawl space going out should stop frost from getting under the crawl space. On older homes with just an insulated wall, the frost will still only enter at a 45 degree angle. The crawl spaces can get more...

That’s something to consider. It isn’t here.

Are you running gas furnace as well? My home is 1876 sq ft. 18kw furnace and everything else is electric. I included an 8kw boiler in my load calc and think it came out to 189 amps. So I wanted a shop with possible heat. I know I could have gotten by with 200 amp. But instead went 400 with a...

The foam should not be outside the insulation. It will create a second vapour barrier. But I agree he should do 2x6. And ridgid on the inside of the studs.

If your looking for a lifetime building I would add a couple things. Snap lok or like, roof. As opposed to exposed fasteners. Also putting a curb on your existing slab would be a good idea to keep the wood up. A 6” high curb would do fine. You would be fine with just strapping on exterior...

Because it is cheaper and better/even heat. And say it needs to recover because someone left the door open, it might fire up 5kw instead 18. And cutoff when temp is back. I don’t have setbacks or any “leave home” bs. With a hp I don’t see the benefit. I set my temp and leave it. My house...

If you want the hp to function while resistance heat is taking up load, you’ll need a communicating system. For a garage, doesn’t really make sense. I have a Lennox system in my house. So far it’s been good. Even when my hp is at its max and the temp is the lowest that it can operate, it’s cop...

Absolutely would be over kill for a shop. And even backup heat if it isn’t a necessity. But he’ll need the forced air unit anyway so adding heat atrips would be cheap.

Like I mentioned above, a dual stage or variable speed heat pump will allow heating or cooling(if that’s the case) to be large enough that the other half can run a lower stage, so it won’t be oversized. And yes I would always have enough electric heat in the house to heat the house as if the...

Heat pump for sure. Dual stage. That way heat can be sized properly and still mostly use single stage ac. In Canada here, my heat pump will heat my 1860 sq ft with full 10’ basement up until about -22. And even then my furnace only cuts in amount of strips needed. Heat pump is variable speed...

I’m similar to you. Best to just keep using it and write down the shortcuts. In basis it’s very simple. And I have a hard time getting around that. It needs something to build with. You can’t build in space, it it can do pretty much anything lol hard to figure out how to do something. And most...

That’s a lot of work. Sealing at every stud space. I don’t see the benefit. Also I don’t see how it can seal or insulate anywhere as near as good as the alternative. We poly behind tin. As tin is not a vapour barrier by code, that I’m aware of.

Kraft paper isn’t the way to go imo. And 6mil is the mine for vapour barrier. There’s certified poly for that. How do you seal all the joints in the kraft paper? You can’t. Poly over the Kraft paper If you want to keep it. That’s my advice. The tyvek on the outside is a moisture barrier and...