Recent content by AC-WC

OK, from the pics it looks like you have algae/mildew buildup vs rot. If you decide to keep the framing definitely use a house/deck wash with algaecide. Scrub brush or pressure washer. Definitely tape on the joists.

Slightly smaller bases and 1 less hole is probably a cost save in manufacturing. It still has to be safe to lift the advertised 7k so I wouldn't be to worried about it. Looking at the base I see 6 holes. Is one covered up by something inside the column? If it makes you feel any better you...

For insurance purposes-get your notebook and write down every tool you can remember. Think of what was/is in each drawer and log it. Once you get better access and a little more time take digital pictures of each tool you cannot/should not save. This gives you much more leverage with the...

Hmm-I bought mine 3 yrs ago. I'm not seeing a whole lot of difference. Don't worry about the top plate it's 'thin', I never took mine off. I can recommend buying fender shims from HF to ensure level between the columns. Use an engine hoist to lift it to the pictured level and then have a...

Perhaps this will give some guidance? We put a lower deck on the back of the house 20+ years ago. Maybe 5 yrs ago 2 or 3 of the floor boards rotted through. Got to it 2 weeks ago. I'm now down to staining the rails and ballisters. Under the rotted floor boards were 2 joists that were...

Narrows it down to US made and older (15 plus?)

1) the lift-game changer for anyone working on cars. 2) electrical-220 for air compressor/welder. Also allowed multiple circuits and outbuildings. 3) lighting-went from 4 or 5 flourescents to 16 LED fixtures. 4) insulation-nuff said. 4) still working on mini-split but do have 80k heater for the...

Any writing on the pump assembly?

I don't believe housewrap would help your current situation. Since the sheet metal is already up that's a ton of work to remove just for housewrap. Short of removing all your paneling I don't know of another way to install the vapor barrier to the interior. I have the same condition in this...

I would make it much deeper. I followed bendpaks guidelines for my lift. https://www.bendpak.com/media/wysiwyg/downloads/Concrete-Slab-Footer-Recommendations-BendPak-2025.pdf I went down 14", 2" compacted stone, 2 layers of fiberglass rebar at 12" centered and then 12" concrete. I don't have...

I'm confused-so the 12k lift was too wide?

Sounds like a fair deal to me. Did you get more than one quote?

Suggest you review with the concrete guy. Sometimes they like to cut the reliefs the day after vs the trowel/wet seam during the pour. If they do the day after cut it will be much easier to layout the column locations and then confirm reliefs are minimum 8" from the columns.

My opinion-center the dormers over the doors. For the 2 post lift leave a blank spot of rebar where the column/bolts will go. It's preferable for the bolts not to hit the rebar. I followed Bendpak concrete guidelines for my retrofit and many other GJ folks do as well. They have 'new'...

Yes, maybe a quart left? Instead if buying a 5 gallon can and having 2 gallons left over from the pole barn and the garage I bought separate gallons and all were slightly different. Nothing special, Cheap barn paint.