Recent content by AllenV

I have had this Grizzly saw https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-5-x-6-1-2-hp-metal-cutting-bandsaw-w-swivel-head/g9742 For the past dozen years. Use it a lot and has worked well. I bought it for the hydraulic downfeed and am glad to have done so.

I have 3 and a half years on my 18 lamps. No failures. Still happy with them Allen

I am also of a certain age where my back is not fond of bending over to work on the top of a motor to do things like removing water pumps and pulling radiators. Even though I don't need to get under a car, I often will put it on the lift just to raise it about 9 inches to a more ergonomic position.

I have a 2-post lift and 12-foot ceilings and do work both standing and sitting. But I will DQ myself from the polling due to high ceilings. What I want bring to you attention regards your specific interest in transmission removal. Consider that with a 2-post lift you can remove most of the...

I can't speak to "normal" from what is now 2 data points, but... My place has a fiber reinforced slab. The individual fibers were about 2 inches long. And yes, the final concrete surface has fibers sticking out. It is as though the fibers prefer to work their way up to the surface during...

I have had this same Grizzly G9742 saw in my shop since about 2009. It continues to be a favorite tool. It cuts true and reliably. Set the feed slow and don’t drop the blade on the work piece and it will do you well. I do suggest you use some sort of wax lubricant stick on the blade...

If I understand the structure, the masonry end wall is the only thing handling sheer loads (wind loads). Please be careful to include sheer loads in your modified design. We recently had the spectacle in our neighborhood of a car port being built using only 6 poles. Within a few weeks it was...

Lifted the cab on Nellie, my '55 F100

Glare would be a good reason to go with the frosted variety of tube. It seems that most manufacturers offer them both ways. I happen to be fond of clear style, but this is a matter of personal preference.

Replying to the previous 3 posts re:120V operation and stickering: Yes, the ones I put in are direct-wire to 120V. The manufacturer provided a very clear diagram for rewiring the fixture. You can find on the website a short discussion of the benefits of direct-wire versus running with the...

Okay, here is the most amusing contractor horror story. Although this was the root cause of a roof leak that appeared much later. Here in the southwest we have a strange attachment to homes with flat roofs. Mine is no different. To keep the same look and feel the shop also has a flat roof...

I use 2 separate 30A circuits. Each wall has one 220VAC receptacle. One circuit has the the lift hardwired to it along with a 220VAC Wall receptacle located by my air compressor. The compressor is still 110VAC, so that is a future use. The other circuit has 3 wall receptacles. Each is nearby...

I did mine all at once as I had several flickering lights. For reference, I used Hyperikon model HyperBC-4C-405 This is an 18W unit putting out 2320 Lm at 4000K color temperature.

So, my shop is now 14 years old and was lit by 18 4-foot T8 fluorescent tubes. A couple of years ago I was faced with relamping. However fluorescent lighting is not especially "green" so I investigated LED replacements. The products I found at the home centers did not impress. They were dim...

Then I got to work on the inside. Wired with a 100A panel for 120VAC and 240VAC ( sorry, no images ) The 240VAC is run as 4-wire with 1 outlet per wall plus a hardwired ceiling box for the lift. The lift was installed with the priceless help of several friends. The lift went in BFEORE...