Recent content by anojones

So I just readjusted my door so it doesn't go all the way up (i.e. there is some downward weight on the door when it is open)- this took care of my slack problem and it's still high enough for all my equipment. I was able to correctly install the slack monitor. Are there any issues with not...

I just had my 10X12 door cables tangle and was stuck in the open position (I let it down with my tractor loader). I have the 3800 installed but was not using the cable tension monitor, after having the door fixed I added the tension monitor but I get slack right as the door goes down which...

Cutting the old vapor barrier makes sense, allows the moisture to move back and forth. In terms of adding plastic over paper backed fiberglass in a wood structure, I probably wouldn't bother if I could face staple the insulation and have a pretty complete barrier. Some folks would rather have a...

Probably not a bad idea to add insulation. The problem is warm air holds more moisture and will move thru the wall and hit the existing vapor barrier and condese to water, making your added insulation wet. There are some ways to deal with this- add insulation without a another vapor barrier...

I had the same problem, looking for a deep small sink and just couldn't find what I was looking for in a reasonable price range. I ended up buying an inexpensive bathroom cabinet/sink combo- not deep but at least gives me a sink for cheap until I find the right tub.

I have a couple of these fans on Lutron controllers from HD, they work fine. I agree, the controller that comes with the fan is not great. The fans themselves are great for the money, and move a lot of air.

The vapor barrier thing can get confusing and I don't think there is a complete consensus on it. I'm in a different climate, hot and dry with cold winters- so have different heating and cooling needs-YMMV. However, the main reason for poly is to stop water vapor from leaving the heated side of...

My pole barn is constructed like this with horizontal members on the flat between the posts nailed to 2X6 blocking attached to the posts- this is sometimes referred to as "commercial girts". Unlike the link above, my posts are treated 6X6 and the girts are 2X6 dimensional so the posts weren't...

Thanks- I think I'll just leave it for now, hopefully not regret it in the future. The door opener works great otherwise and is very quiet.

I have the same problem due to an uneven slab. I installed a product similar to the one in the link, it didn't help a bit, just made it more difficult for me to sweep out the water. I may try the garden hose trick or a bigger weatherstripping piece as well. I thought about trying to level the...

Hey- I installed my 3800 on my 12X10 door, it was a fairly easy install and it works great and is very quiet compared to the iDrives in my house. My only issue was finding a place to mount the cable tension monitor, I thought I'd finally found a spot but I was wrong and I mangled it when the...

My wayne dalton spools get tangled quite a bit- usually when the door is opening. I have a 3800 waiting to be installed in my shop, but wouldn't use the wayne daltons again.

The housing just above the fan blades (not the one near the ceiling)- mine are one screw. Not a big deal given you really only need to change fan direction twice a year (if one really needs to bother at all). I just got mine re-hooked up in the garage without a specialized fan switch and it...

I have 3 of those HD fans, had them in the house and just moved two of them to the newly completed garage. The were mounted about 12' from the floor and move a lot of air- way too much for in the house. They do make a lot of wind noise on the highest level, and have a bit of mechanical noise...

I've been considering the same thing, when I framed in my utility room in my barn, I messed up and didn't leave enough room for a freestanding laundry/utility tub. I'd like a deep sink, but only have 18" of depth and can't find a small utility sink and was thinking of putting a bar sink in an...