Recent content by [Anonymous]

I have also thought about using a stain with a sealer or coating such as the polyurea on top of it.

I have had some of those lapse in judgement moments myself where I have marred the finish on something unintentionally, but I think if I was moving a rearend or a large vice or a block, transmission etc, I would at the least use a hand truck or furniture dolly or jack or something. With my...

I am in Central Florida, so any kind of radiant heat would really be useless except for maybe four days a year. Here it is the last week of December and highs are low to mid 80's. It is supposed to cool down to 41° on Friday though. When I poured I did pour 3'x6' pads at min 6" thick. The...

How much concern do I have for humidity during application? This time of year, during the day, humidity goes down to about 50%. Overnight though it does go back up to about 90%, unless we get a cold spell which then affects the temp to be applied at.

I have looked at some polyurea's and that was my initial thought to go with, but it is a bit expensive at about $2/sq ft. The polyurea seems to be the best with UV protection as far as vs epoxy. I took a look at your site on the Rust Bullet, but did not get out of it what the actual product is...

Thank you for the options so far. If you did do a "polished" floor, would you actually polish it out like a terrazzo or just scrub it with a Diamabrush, use a densifier and then a clear? If using a densifier and clear, what products would you use? I do think it has to be coated with some kind...

Hello garagejournal friends. I would like some opinions on what you feel to be the best floor covering for a newly built garage/shop. This Central Florida shop is about 1025 sq ft and has two overhead doors 10'x10' and one man door that all face south. In one corner (North East) is a bathroom...

I have been reading through some of your threads. Looks like you started all with the same dilemmas as me. Looks like you looked in to a metal building for a quick and less expensive build, but then decided on concrete block. I am now leaning in the same direction as I think that radiant heat...

Stick construction does not do well here in Florida. It does not hold up well to hurricanes or tropical storms. It also tends to rot here pretty quickly as well. Wet rot. Notice the block buildings on either side are still standing with their stick roof damaged and the structure in the...

The initial quote and contract is for an insulated metal building, so that was already a done deal. The supplier is the one that would be constructing the metal building and I have a separate GC to take care of the slab, electric and plumbing.

It took a year to get everything together. Had to pay a deposit to the building vendor to get plans for a building. Once I got plans for the building I was then able to give them to the engineer to make drawings. After I had the drawings I had to fill out all of the paperwork for variances...

Also, I have been having second thoughts about using a metal building. I did plan on having it insulated, but I am really concerned about keeping it cool. I am in Orlando, FL so I really don't have to worry about heating it. I am currently using a portable garage (a lot like a tent) and a...

Not to completely hi-jack your thread, but how deep is your garage? How deep is your workbench you are placing in front of the car? What size/length car are you working on most of the time?

So, it looks like what I might do is go and see the metal building supplier today and see if I can get them to build the building 30'x34'. BTW, here is a quick drawing I had put together of what the floor plan might look like.

Hi Guys, I have tried to do some searching, but everyone's plan is kind of unique and does not always translate. I have been working on building a garage/shop for a very long time. I sold my previous house to get out of an area with an HOA, bought a new to me house on a half acre lot and...