Recent content by AnonymousToolGuy

Google isn't helping me much. I'd like to replace one of the outlets in my kitchen with a hard-line to undercabinent LED lighting. The little information I have seems to indicate that you can't use those outlets for any other purpose besides appliances. What I don't understand is - it's ok...

I've wanted to learn how to weld for a while and ended up impulse buying the welder. Eastwood also had a convenient $50 off deal going for the Tig 200 so at $650 I was like "eh what the hell". All the accessory costs though is what added up. $240 for a 80cf argon bottle, replaced the torch...

I have a block of neoprene rubber that I throw on the mitre saw and cut my own jack stand and floor jack pads. 75A hardness.

Did. Bead sinks in with no filler.

Here's .045 filler. The puddle seemed to run hotter even with less amperage (the heat bands around the bead are smaller width) which is why the colors are darker. It created a smaller bead that penetrated through fine, but the bead is more raised too (might have been pushing in too much). I...

1/16" filler. I'll go give .045 a shot right now and see what happens. This is 16 gauge tubing too.

Think I've got everything dialed in. 15cfh on the purge, 25cfh on the shielding. #18 cup. 1/4" stick out. 7.5s post flow because the thing gets so hot it needs a long time to stop glowing. Only thing I would fix is moving in even smaller sections and dipping filler more frequently.

Wheel stud would snap if the nut was torqued down to 210 ft-pounds. On my regular passenger car, the highest torque bolts aside from axle nuts are suspension / brakes at 80 ft-lbs. I've undone them all with the M18 Fuel 3/8. I've undone lugnuts too with the wheels off the ground which is...

I have 3: GW 1/2", GW 3/8", HF 1/4". The 3/8" is the one I end up using nearly always. All 3 I've calbiration-checked and all 3 were accurate. GW was bought 4 years ago. Don't drop it, don't store it wound up, and it's fine. Calibrate if someone's life depends on the torque being...

i haven't encountered any automotive fasteners that my M18 Fuel 3/8" impact can't get off. The only reason I would buy the 1/2" nut-buster would be for stuff like Axle Nuts and Crankshaft pulley bolts. Never bought the Hex version because I knew I would never need it. I just use a 3/8 to hex...

The first attempt I did was with no filler and penetration wasn't complete. Wherever there was penetration all the way, the weld was sunken in. Don't know the rules, but maybe that's OK for certain applications (sanitary?) but not others. Or maybe would work with .045 tungsten. Tried 10 on...

Fresh practice. Went slower with less heat and waited for the puddle to build before dipping each time. I need to work on not dipping the tungsten when I'm moving around the circumference. Got contaminated pretty bad towards the end but bead seemed to be serviceable still. Probably need to...

It's feather sensitive (at least mine is, but I disassembled and lubed everything up). It'll ratchet on even the loosest bolts without backing them off.

I buy all my GW stuff from ToolDiscounter. Think it's branded as KD Tools on there but the part numbers are all the same and a lot cheaper than Amazon or similar. 120XP ratchets are great. 3/8 and 1/4 cushioned grip flex heads are the bee's knees. Love the extra length.

I'll probably try working the puddle from the inner pipe to the outer muffler pipe and hope everything fuses nicely without burning away. Fortunately I don't need to pass a test or anything so even if I make a hole it can still be repaired! I was practicing offset edges and it seemed like...