Recent content by b_bueno

The plug needs to be held in a two piece tapered holder (tapered hole and a base clamped) with the working end exposed. Drilling at a speed you make a continuous chip will work or a two flute endmill will let you make the blind hole flat.

Always tack your pieces before finish welding.

Stay away from that, it'll sink your boat.

Lincoln plasma Pro-55 is my go to in the garage.

Location should be ergonomic to you while: Reversing while tapping Bumping the motor while inspecting/ aligning the part in the chuck Clear of the spindle in case stringy chips are wrapped around the chuck/ part

With no power (breaker off) does it turn by hand? Oil level/ condition of oil (metallic particles)? Try running the motor with out the drive belt.

File it x2 Use the wrench for fitting it.

Pick up the phone and call a welding supply.

The main contributing factor with using a cold saw and the specific material you plan to use it for is the number of teeth (TPI like a band saw blade). My experience has always been to reach out to the blade grinder (same place I purchased my saw from). Let them know exactly what...

I would suggest a Lincoln wire feeder (1-3 lb spool capacity). Under a grand and sufficient for small tasks. Using an inner sheild wire is fine. You may want to get into solid wire and shielding gas down the road but it will be an added expense.

Very nice work there.

Sometimes you can't have it all. My circa '90s L-Tec has a 115 vac on the back.

This would defeat the purpose of the AD. Basic sheild is the way to go IMO.

A habit I have is to go thru as much of the equipment until I'm confident it's where it needs to be reliable. Changing the cords will add a level of safety and confidence in the tool. Keep in mind, not everybody's standards are up to yours or mine.

Classic!