Recent content by barnonline

Wakefield, the use of silicone in electrical applications seems contested. Here is a link to an article that explains it well. Notice that it says it CAN happen, not that it WILL happen. https://support.newgatesimms.com/not-recommended-silicone-grease-use-on-electrical-connectors/

Regarding retrobright, I don't think it is suitable. It is for white/light colored plastic that have yellowed over time. I your case i presume it because the yellow have faded over time. I could be either that the pigment have faded, or it could be that the plastic have become dull. Most likely...

I don't get it? Explain it like I was a 5 year old. Why would they no longer be premium tools? Is it because it is manufactured in Vietnam? And if yes, does that also mean that iPhones are not a premium product since they are made in China?

I'm pretty sure that the Snap On is made by jwl. https://www.jwl.dk/en/blowguns/

Dave what do you mean? Of course we want pictures!

This is why: https://rtstools.com/why-torx-bolts-are-better-than-hex-bolts/ And yes Phillips is an abomination, that should be banned.

Agreed. And other in this thread agrees as well https://bethepro.com/forums/topic/which-omt-blades-get-the-most-use/på The carbide blade is my general purpose blade. It have until now lasted far longer than any other type, -as one would expect, and it is also my most used blade. A sharp...

Quote from the link gf0012-aust provided: Howd, Ah, no, as respectfully as I possibly can, I must warn you against using Muriatic Acid (Hydrochloric Acid) on steel. Yes, it takes the exisiting rust right off. BUT, and it is a BIG BUT, it results in the steel rusting forever. The culprit is...

Unless you are usually using a soft caulk/a thick bead I personally prefer a high thrust gun for allround use. I prefer the situation where I do a lot of fast easy squeezes with a high thrust + soft caulk than the opposite scenario with very hard squeezes with a low thrust + hard caulk

You are right, electrolysis only work in line of sight. So if something is rusted together, electrolysis is not the best option. Use a chemical solution (no pun intended). Usually heat (lukewarm or more) and agitation of the fluid speed up the process.

I have swissgrip, and I must say for mine hand, the grip is extraordinary good. Yes they don't cleanup easy, but I vastly prefer them. As others have said consider closely what you really need, for exampl PH/PZ 4 is so rare that I would not bother. Screwdrivers are consumables, so I will...

I have no experience with metal chopsaws what so ever. But is this a nice good cut? Based on my lack of knowlegde, I would have expected something Sharp and crisp, like on a pictureframe. Were did I assume wrong?

Cellulose thinner is a mixture of different solvents, usually primarily toluen, acetone & MIBK (Methyl IsoButyl Ketone) It is a rather harsh mixture. In no way I would guarantee it would remove the rubber without harming the paint under. I would try with alcohol first and see if it worked.

Spot on spelling

Baldor was aquired by ABB in 2011, but kept it's ownname/brand until recently https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baldor_Electric_Company