Recent content by BeansBaxter

" There are some videos where he says that users asked for specific brands to be tested, usually as a follow-up to the original video. For example, the penetrating oil series includes brands that viewers requested.

Yes, that's the one. When you unzip it you should get a file that ends in ".bin". Copy that file to your SD card, turn off your printer, insert the SD card, then turn the printer back on. That will flash the new firmware to your board.

Creality does some odd things with their firmware version numbering. I think that version corresponds to an early version of Marlin 2.0 while the current version of Marlin is 2.1.1 What you have will be good enough for now but it probably doesn't support your CR Touch or filament runout sensor.

I agree it can be confusing. A couple of things to note. Firmware is the code that runs your board and makes it do things. Marlin is a specific firmware that is the most commonly used for 3D printers, including your Ender 3 V2. In order for your printer to run, you need the right version of...

Do you have lube specifications available? I didn't see anything on the website. I'm wondering specifically about impact mechanisms and right angle grinder gears.

Higher flow rates are definitely one aspect of it. But the thin-walled heatbreaks are also better at preventing heat creep, which is a frequently-reported problem with the Micro Swiss hotend, or at least the Creality replacement kit ones. I'm not aware of any differences in abrasive filament...

My knowledge of Micro Swiss all metal hotends is from their kits for Creality printers. In that arena, I would say any of the newer style hotends with bimetallic, thin-wall heatbreaks are going to give better performance. The Dragonfly, for example, is a drop-in replacement with a similar price...

Yeah, I’m relatively up-to-date on the scene but I don’t know about the FFCP specifically. I thought it might have some proprietary carriage that couldn’t use the more recent hotends for some reason.

Is that still the best FFCP hotend upgrade?

I'm sure you're getting good results. My point isn't that it won't work. It's that doing it that way creates a less stable equilibrium. And people with much more 3D printing knowledge and experience than me have said it's not the best approach because of that.

I notice on that page it says the opposite: He also said: I agree with him, and with Andrew Ellis who said this in his print tuning guide (which I recommend as a good companion to Teaching Tech)

What printer are you using that needs XYZ steps calibration? Extruder calibration makes sense, especially for single-gear extruders, but I'm trying to understand what kind of motion system would require it for XYZ. Shouldn't it be the result a mathematical formula based on the screw or belt...

This is what I use. If it's going to be really cold, I also have the Kinco work mittens.

Thanks for that reply. What makes it worth the ~$100 premium to you over the Astro?

If you didn't have any air impacts, which would you buy? Snap-On MG725 for $620 Aircat 1250K for $250 Astro 1894 for $155 TZTool for $123