Recent content by bigmike989

Liftmaster 823LM (wired wall switch that can be controlled from GDO remote) is what you would have wanted, but it is discontinued. They pop up on eBay. The Liftmaster 825LM (supports both remote and myQ) is still available and would have to be cobbled together to control a light fixture...

:Looks like the brother to my 150, side ear and all. I read HAY BUDDEN MANUFACTURING BROOKLYN NY

Seconding too close to grade. And unless what is under the threshold is sloped, the water will wick under the jamb and get inside. You likely need something like a Jamsill Guard Sill (https://jamsill.com/) that gives you lip on the inside perimeter+behind the jamb.

Well the Wilton 2901310 was a no-go, too small of a hole for the ball. I also realized this clamp is some home brew item as the screw is too short for the pad to reach the bottom jaw.

Thanks all. No-go on a lathe. Hunting down sources for a Wilton. Will report.

Hello. I acquired a beautiful Williams CC-412, 12 inch C-clamp, minus the pad. Do you know of a source for a replacement pad that will fit a 0.67 inch diameter ball? McMaster ones only go to 0.575 inch and the Westward 10D573 looks to max out at 0.50 inch. Thanks.

Looks like FastenMaster HeadLok Spider Drive

I like the Taymac metal ones. Taymac MX3200

Ignore, I see you are not at the bottom.

How about bread (ya, white bread) and using the blind bearing method: Remove a Pilot Bearing with Bread

Fastcap option? https://www.fastcap.com/product/wood-washer

I was happy with a couple of these for another project https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VWV5YCH/

Another argument for replacement is if and when you do sell the house, a home inspector will flag FPE as a defect.

Make sure both switches are to their extreme position. I've had a 3-way stop in the "middle" with no connection. It just needed to be bumped.

pi_guy has it.