Recent content by Bill C

It’s BACK! And still made in the USA! I bought one a while back and use just as you describe. Sometimes I clamp my vise down with it, or sometimes I secure the actual part with it. Tons of clamping force and very easy adjust. The design has been picked up by wise-men trading co. It is...

Keep it. A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush.

I would 100% send them back. It is Amazon, they can afford to handle the return. Not only are the items bent/defective, but the pouch is clearly not the one in the picture. I'd start by asking for an exchange. If the replacement set shows up and its the same as the first, return it and look...

Never heard of the brand and a quick google search didnt reveal anything. Do you have a picture of the impact wrench?

For "general use" I like 880 Crown & Chassis. https://www.texasrefinery.com/products/greases/880-crown-chassis-grease/#

Wow guys, thanks for all the advice. There is certainly more than one way to skin a cat. I think I’ll get some grommets from McMaster and do my best with either the Ol’ rat tail file (gotta see how hard that torch made the steel) or die grinder to knock down the biggest chunks of slag. Then I’ll...

I like the idea of using a back-up piece of lumber. I believe that would really help with the chatter I am concerned about. Probably would give it a go with one my cheap HF step drills as opposed to my nicer ones. I’ve had situations in the past with misaligned holes where a bridge reamer could...

Yea I figured they were made with a torch. There is conduit on the A-frame tongue for the wiring, But once it gets under the decking, the conduit stops. I plan to use grommets in the holes but would like get em more uniform first. Also not sure I’ve seen a rubber grommet for such thick (1/4”)...

Hi all, I am fixing up a trailer that I picked up from my neighbor for free. There are some holes (approx 1/2” diameter) drilled in the frame for routing the wiring but it looks like they were cut with a torch. They are very out-of-round and jagged. I’d like to clean them up and make the holes...

OP wants 10+CFM. The Kobalt unit is rated at 5CFM. I’m sure it’s a fine compressor for lots of shop uses but it’s not gonna work for a guy wanting to paint and do bodywork.

Sticking with 120V is going to be your limitation to CFM. Going to a smaller tank won’t help. Higher CFM pumps need bigger HP motors which all run on 240V

That is an auto drain valve. It is missing the plumbing to the bottom of the tank. It is triggered by the air coming out of the unloader valve on the compressor. So basically every time the compressor cycles off and the unloader discharges the pressure in the cylinder head, the tank drain opens...

I’m not too worried about it. Perfectly useable right now as the bearings feel pretty good. I figure the tack weld kinda solves one problem (loosening set screw) but creates a another. If and when I need to service the unit, I will figure out the weld issue. It’s just a small tack weld, so it...

Well I got DP#2. The one I posted about earlier with the cracked head frame. With the exception of the crack in the head, it’s pretty solid. The power cord appears original and needs replacement. The quill return is slow despite being adequately tensioned (likely just gummed up and needs a...

I’m picking up a 100 floor standing unit tomorrow. It has a crack in the head (see attached photo) but the price reflects that). Do you think this crack will actually be a problem in use? I’m personally buying it only for the floor standing base/column and multi-speed center pulley. My current...