Recent content by blue77

Yeah I told her that, and she said good luck with that ;) We'll work it out, it is a while before spring anyway

Thanks for the information all!! I went out and 'marked off' the size for my wife, she wasn't happy with how large I wanted it :D Gosh marriage is fun (10 years later :D)

You know it will be close enough to consider a breezeway, but it will be at the corner of the house, so it wouldn't actually be from a door to a door, it would simply be a roof that touched the two buildings.

Actually I think the setbacks are ok, it is the height that is going to hurt. Disregard everything in green, I'm just an idiot :D I was thinking wheel base = width (because of a messed up picture on Chevy's website, stupid Chevy website :D) ACK.. someone tell me i'm doing something wrong...

Yeah I talked to my township inspector; we basically follow the 'R1' codes. Setback is 20' rear and side, coverage is 15% total, height is 15' (for detached buildings) front of the garage can't be past the 'rear' of the house line. All of these can be changed with a 'zoning review' as long as...

Frankly for the difference in cost (not that much), I would go with the R-10 with no discussion needed. The doors will likely be the biggest thermal loss area, and where you live it MATTERS. If you heat the the garage during the winter, the cost you spend for the R-10 will be a drop in the...

4k PSI concrete is required at least at the footer to your lifts, if you can afford it, I would do the whole slab that way

I got an estimate for a 30x40' 14' roof, steel building with sheeting, roof, and trim included and it ran ~$12k (NOT INSTALLED and no foundation). They didn't do anything smaller, so i'm not sure the cost of a 500 sqft version

I would expect that most body fillers would crack and/or lose adherson when 'baked'. Personally I do patch welds for frame work, and paint the skin (which has body filler). I know nothing about the eastman filler, but I would be VERY surprised if it had the same expansion characteristics of...

Great software thanks!! At work I use Pro-E and AutoCAD (well and some other tools like matlab and the like) and Unless you know what you want, they are hard to design with (though they are PERFECT for detail design, I can render and 'blow apart' assemblies)

Older materials are always suspect, modern drawing processes are 1000x better than they were, more importantly they are consistant. I would be surprised if you had those issues with modern copper.

What metal WAS designed for compessed air? Metal is metal, as long as it is airtight and of the right thickness any can work. That said, all have advantages and disadvantages. Dry air is pretty safe with black iron, copper is safe as long as jointed properly, the new fangled stuff is also safe...

PAToyota, I wasn't taking offense far from it :D You are giving me the same kind of answers I'm getting else where. Yeah I guess it should be his issue to figure out the codes, but he is also one of the few designers that actually gave me the time of day :D My house is a white colonial with...

LOL, yeah it seems that the price of the 'drawings' are more or less a function of the cost of the garage, and that the cost of the garage is a function of the drawings, contractor, materials, and time. Hard to get an estimate of even the design of the garage before the garage design is done ;)...

Thanks for the information :D I dont think this would qualify as special in any strech (but then maybe it is) and I would be doing my own work/general contracting (depending on what parts we were talking about) so it would be drawings and not much else. That said, until you have a design how...