Recent content by bowtie327

Threads like this one are dangerous for my wallet. Especially when timed with the “Buy more, save more” events. I tried Craftsman, Dewalt, and even Harbor Freight boxes. All were eventually returned and exchanged for Packouts. Non of the other brands hold up like Milwaukee Packouts do. And its...

Its hard to tell from just the one picture, but that crack looks to be more than a hairline. You can get a device to measure/monitor it.

Per the span chart, 2x6 16” oc @ 7’ is well within spec. https://up.codes/viewer/general-services-administration/irc-2024/chapter/5/floors#R502.1

To answer your question, I say ‘Yes’ its sound. Just based off the facts of age and that you have no foundation issues. In that, I agree with d.mcfarland and would not think anymore about it. I don’t know what the building code’s for footings were back in the 1970’s, if they even had any. But...

Even with no building inspection, you are still required to follow the building codes. You have options other than drywall. OSB, Plywood, Metal (steel or Aluminum), and Trusscore. I’m sure there are others, but those are whats commonly used around me. You seem to lean towards drywall, so...

8’ door width is tight. But in this case, moving to a 9’ door takes away another foot from your wall. And as Ericm pointed out, racking is a real concern with large openings and minimal structural wall support. A 16” wall section in my area is considered the minimum. Its not just sheer...

Agreed, mostly. Without a detailed contract, we cant say if its right per the op’s expectations. But shoddy work can be called out. And should be. The biggest call out is that unsafe wavy stem wall and sill plate junction.

There is a lot of information missing. Thats because the OP is not a contractor or overly experienced with the construction trades. And thats why he came here and shared his project with us. This is a learning moment for anyone looking to go into contracting with someone else. Its a general...

Beautifully said. You have nailed the root cause and the effects. And the reason why codes exist and inspections are needed.

Its your money and your garage, you should be a “stickler”. Your title shows you will be thinking of what you got every month when you make the payments. Your GC should love customers like you because he should be able to prove why he made those decisions. The customer walks away knowing they...

I agree, you should add this to your estimate forms. Reference this thread so your prospects can see what they would be getting. If you despise your customer so much, why do you keep taking his work and his money? People here are calling out not just poor workmanship, but unsafe and non-code...

Perfect is defined by the individuals preference. Building to code is the cheapest, minimally safest way to construct that you are legally allowed. When contractors start making statements like “rebar is not needed” in a garage with a lift being installed or “loads don’t transfer straight down”...

My comment on engaging the building inspector is because he/she will red flag it and require an engineer to sign off on a design. Thereby the engineer would assume the liability. I too have never seen a sill plate installed like that. Not even close. And I have never seen plastic shims used for...

The picture shows the shim is about 3/4 of an inch. And only 1 shim in 48”. You have a floating bottom plate and studs. That is not to code and its not safe. You should engage your building inspector.

Progress. Code requires an anchor bolt or screw every 6‘ max. And within 12”of each bottom plate joint. Those anchors and screws need to be 1/2” or larger in diameter and 7” minimum in depth. That huge gap between the bottom plate and the top of your concrete wall is an Issue. How are they...