Recent content by Brad J.

Not a lot of mention about air sealing and blowing in. Just topping off existing insulation is very ineffective compared to removing it and sealing drywall butts, can lights, wire penetrations. I feel it's a waste of time to to throw more insulation in an attic without addressing air flow...

Mulder insulation out of Kzoo does a good job. They spray nice. More importantly they get the mix right and keep it right. I had a big vaulted ceiling done and another conditioned attic space sprayed. My brother in law is a builder and has used them for years and never mentioned a problem...

I'm near Lansing and had a 32 by 48 done about 5 years ago. 5" in the ceiling and 3" walls. No venting. They block the soffits where they meet the walls and spray it. Closed cell and anything over 4" is a waste according to most charts. Only way I'll do it. Going to do the same to the...

The spot above the windshield might be surface rust from a stone chip. The spot above the rear wheel wells isn't surface rust. It's rot from the backside outward. New quarter skin is the best fix for that. The only permanent repair. Cutting out the area and welding in a new piece can last...

The cut edge doesn't weld good. Make sure and clean the cut area before welding. When the consumables get bad it no longer cuts clean. Just replace them. I buy the 5 packs for my hypertherm.

I wouldn't coat the inside unless you have it professionally dipped and totally cleaned out. The $350 quoted for the job is gonna seem like peanuts if you have tank liner sloshing around in the fuel. I've seen where muratic acid was used and then sealed and it ate right through the metal...

Take it to a redi-strip or similar joint and get it cleaned out right. Otherwise it's gonna bite you in the ****. Wait until you have to remove the sealer that is half floating around in the tank. I've seen it numerous times over the years. Best option is have a new SS tank made. Fuel...

My 180C is pretty much worthless at making good tacks. They just break off easy. Now if I run a bead and get heat into the part then it welds good. It's just soft at the start I guess. I just use it only for bodywork now. Never been that happy with the performance on thicker stuff. In the...

I'd gladly trade a 325 pump that has been used for a little over a year. I bought it from a dry cleaners that went out of business and this was their backup pump. I've used it about a year. I don't need the tank.

I run a silencer from Mcmaster Carr that is similar to what Ducksface built. It's quites the process and doesn't spray all over. 3/8 pipe thread that screws into the electric tank drain.

SPI here. Your getting two full gallons of paint for 180. Great corrosion protection and sandability. Just spray bomb it if you don't want to pay the price for quality.

Looking good. That 705 is better piece than the Quincy reed valve pump you were looking at.

Not sure but it isn't a Quincy, Saylor Beall, Champion, or Kellogge American. My guess is ingersoll Rand by the color and head but it's just a guess.

I ran a kellogg american 5hp everyday for 5 years and it never gave me a lick of trouble. I thought I was upgrading with a 10hp Eaton and sold my Kellogg American. That was a big mistake. The Eaton pumps would last about a year before the lower end would start knocking. That led me down...

You did the right thing. Quincy pressure lubes are the undisputed best reciprocating compressor.