Recent content by branimal

I have the model from 2019/2020 ish. The material supports need constant fiddling to get level with the miter saw's deck. And the level seems to change based on how far out I pull the supports. I can get it to work, but its just frustrating. Especially when cutting crown or larger stock...

I've got one vertical leg stuck behind the mortar / concrete. I've been chipping away inch by inch with my bosch bulldog. I think it's time to rent a 12lb Makita demo hammer. Right now the opening is 79" to the top of the metal frame. I think when the top frame & surrounding mortar comes...

I slit the frame in half vertically (as someone here recommended) and was able to pry off the inside right side of the frame. The outside right side of the frame seems to be embedded in the mortar. I did the same with the left side. But it's also embedded in mortar. The first piece came...

12lb sledge - I don't want to break the brick wall.

I need to replace this rusted out door frame. I managed to remove the bottom of the frame a couple of weeks ago. I cut a small section 8" above the floor with an angle grinder, pryed it & banged it out with a bosch bulldog. It took forever. I can't find any screw on the frame. And it seems...

using self leveler won't work here b/c this is connected to a much larger slab. ~17'x45'.

High spots are like 1/4" too high. I didn't see any low spots with the laser. I've tried grinding down a section of concrete slab for another project with a 4 1/2" angle grinder + dust shroud. It's a lot of work just to get 1/8" in a tiny area. Does this job warrant a walk behind concrete...

Finally got the slab finished off. Guy charged a pretty penny for the job - 4200. They ordered a truck and brought the concrete in buckets to the basement. The slab has some high spots. See pic. Thats a 1/2" block under the level. The high spot is at the bubble on the level. 1/4"...

I'm having a concrete slab finished off on Monday. I'm going to connect the old slab to the new slab using 12" rebar dowels. The contractor suggested we rebar the old slab into the house trap box using a 90 degree bend. Is it worth doing? See pics. I'm going to fill up the pvc plumbing...

My sewer pipe is PVC sleeved inside of clay pipe. Not sure how deep the pvc is sleeved in. During some other work, I noticed the clay pipe is cracked around the point of insertion. IT IS NOT LEAKING. Is it worth trying to repair that crack? I'm a little worried about root intrusion. Or...

I tried scribing a scrap top cap (1x3) to the wall. The wall goes in and out both side to side and veritcally quite a bit making that job very difficult. Plan is to finish the basement with 1 5/8 metal studs and drywall EXCEPT in the staircase area to maximize tread width. See blue lines in...

This guy scribed to a stone wall..... Awesome work. I've scribed to flooring and moulding to brick in the past. It's a long, tedious process. https://www.instagram.com/reel/DQninWXDM1a/

The pipe is near the bottom of the stringer. Just under that scrap piece of skirtboard. Yes basement will be completely refinished. Drywall, lvp on the floor. Open space with a powder room. Which is just under the staircase. See toilet pipe. Are you saying to scribe the treads to the...

I'm building a new set of stairs for my basement. I'd like to maximize width. In order to do that I'm going to leave the foundation wall exposed in the staircase area. I'm also going to leave the staircase header exposed. Any tips or insight appreciated. Here's a mockup of my best idea so...

Following up on this post. 1. The plumber said it could be my shower cartridge causing building wide problems. He shut off the cold water shutoff to the bathroom. Turned my shower's thermostatic valve to cold. And turned on the shower. And there was a slow drip of warm water. He claims this...