Recent content by branimal

I tried scribing a scrap top cap (1x3) to the wall. The wall goes in and out both side to side and veritcally quite a bit making that job very difficult. Plan is to finish the basement with 1 5/8 metal studs and drywall EXCEPT in the staircase area to maximize tread width. See blue lines in...

This guy scribed to a stone wall..... Awesome work. I've scribed to flooring and moulding to brick in the past. It's a long, tedious process. https://www.instagram.com/reel/DQninWXDM1a/

The pipe is near the bottom of the stringer. Just under that scrap piece of skirtboard. Yes basement will be completely refinished. Drywall, lvp on the floor. Open space with a powder room. Which is just under the staircase. See toilet pipe. Are you saying to scribe the treads to the...

I'm building a new set of stairs for my basement. I'd like to maximize width. In order to do that I'm going to leave the foundation wall exposed in the staircase area. I'm also going to leave the staircase header exposed. Any tips or insight appreciated. Here's a mockup of my best idea so...

Following up on this post. 1. The plumber said it could be my shower cartridge causing building wide problems. He shut off the cold water shutoff to the bathroom. Turned my shower's thermostatic valve to cold. And turned on the shower. And there was a slow drip of warm water. He claims this...

Thanks for the detailed response. The headknocker (HK) is 98 3/4" (horizontally) from the staircase opening. Scenario 1: 8 1/4" rise and 9" run certainly works. A plumb line from front edge of the 2nd step would be 8" horizontally from the HK. I'm using that as a feel of what a person might...

As you noted - The headknocker joist is the supporting the staircase stringer above it. One side of it is resting on the foundation wall. The joist behind it is a full joist. I'm not sure how I could move it and still provide support for the stringer. I'll go down there and poke around...

I'm in the process of building a new staircase from the 1st floor to the basement. The opening in both directions is somewhat limited. From the landing to the headroom obstruction I have 98 3/4". Staircase width from foundation wall to staircase header I have 30 1/2". Headroom obstruction...

I have a piece of paper with the job spec, price, etc. But it's effectively a post-it price. These guys are off to the next job. I wouldn't let them finish the remainder anyway. I had to run around before the pour to make sure all the forms were on mark. And make sure each stake was cut...

The contractors that did my basement slab have disappeared. They under-ordered the concrete required. They needed ~12 yards and they ordered 10.5. Trying to maximize profits. I specifically told them to order extra and I'll pay for it. Job was quoted at 9500. They got paid 5000. They...

Froze the line with the Ridgid, replaced 24" of damaged pipe. Practice run on a section of pipe connected to garden hose was a great idea. Thanks for all the helpful insight.

A bit more digging, chipping and sanding. Ball Valve on the street side of the meter is working. Not sure why its there. I guess if the city needs to replace the meter, this makes it easy. No need to dig up the street to shutoff the tap to replace the meter. It's a pack joint style shutoff...

Plan of action… Freeze the line, house main shut off. Drill 1/8“ hole in section to be replaced. If it leaks I have a bandage repair clamp on hand. Then I need to come up with plan B. NO Leak - replace the entire line all the way to the meter. 8-10’ of type K ($16/ft - no brainer), sweat on...

Of course. And that's if my tap is even functional. Many are corroded FWIR. Then they would use a pinch or freeze machine I guess.

Link to said black magic Seems somewhat catastrophic to the pipe. Maybe malleable copper like my pipe would re-round a bit better.