Recent content by Briandel

After seeing so many impressive garages here, I'm curious what upgrade made the biggest day-to-day difference for you. Lighting? Insulation? Air lines? Better storage? Looking back, what was worth every penny?

I think you made the right call starting fresh instead of trying to tie into the old carport. It’s more work now, but it’ll be a cleaner build and you won’t be working around the limitations of the older structure. Looking forward to seeing it once the concrete is down and the framing starts.

Starting fresh was the right move. Shops change so much over time that the old thread probably wouldn’t match reality anymore anyway.

I’d say go for it! I had my carport installed in Mount Airy, and while it took a bit longer than I expected, the end result was really solid. You can check out other vendors online, but if you want something reliable, Boss Buildings worked well for me.

Most people just drill a small test hole. A 3/8"–1/2" masonry bit works fine — once you break through the slab you’ll feel the drop and can measure the depth on the bit or with a wire. It’s quick and cheap. Afterward you can fill the hole with non-shrink grout, hydraulic cement, or even...

Eastern Canada + clay + heated shop = don’t cheap out on frost protection. If you’re planning to heat it even occasionally, full under-slab insulation with vertical edge insulation is the safest play. The heat loss at the slab perimeter is where most problems start, especially in clay. Option...

Congrats on the place. That asphalt isn’t “uncured” after that many years it’s fully cured. What’s likely happening is it was laid thin and/or without a proper base. Asphalt also isn’t great for static loads (tool chests, shelving, jack stands). It’s meant for flexible traffic loads, not point...

A 65 hp tractor can unload one, but it really depends on how the bundle shows up. Some loads are broken down into manageable, others come stacked higher and heavier than you expect. The longest rafters and column bundles are usually what get sketchy, not the sheet metal. I’ve seen guys unload...

Brother Nice starting point. A 26x34 with that ceiling height gives you a lot of options once it’s finished out. Blank slate garages are intimidating but also the best kind to work with. Looking forward to seeing how you take it as things start coming together.

I’ve been around both, and honestly at 80x80 the structure choice matters less than how you finish it. Steel goes up faster and stays straight, wood is more forgiving if you want to change things later. Since you’re skinning the inside with steel either way, durability ends up pretty similar day...

If you’re happy with the 6500s themselves and it’s just the remotes/receiver, I swapped mine to newer 315 MHz receivers and remotes and the range was way better. No magic brand — just make sure it’s the right frequency and learn procedure for the Star 6500. Reprogramming them on the bench before...

If the slab was ground and cleaned properly, you’re already ahead of most failures. For foot traffic only, I wouldn’t use the big-box one-part floor paints. They look fine at first but tend to scuff and wear pretty fast. A basic two-part water-based epoxy is easy to roll on, doesn’t cost a...

With <10’ of usable width, a conventional two-post really isn’t a great fit. Even if you find one that technically works on paper, door swing and arm placement become the daily frustration — especially once toolboxes and benches are factored in. That’s usually what kills the idea, not the lift...