Recent content by bruincounselor

Very Cool Jim! Now get work on that R1100....

I thought you were going to frame the box before the sheetrock went in?

That's pretty cool Jim. I have a HF lift and the damn thing moves when I load it and won't move (easily) once loaded.

I can't tell you what seals they used, but I can tell you that when I pull in to the garage and close the overhead there is enough pressure inside that my 11 year old can't get the man door open. It's really that tight.

I found this thread a few years ago when I was planning my garage. The garage has been done for 18 months now and this thread is pretty much the only reason I visit regularly. The automation rabbit hole is intriguing; but finding the time to wrap my head around it all isn't there. Thanks for...

PEX is very quick to install. No joints in walls. Crimper is affordable of you look around. Copper looks nice and is more expensive.

And, if you don't have a true floor drain you don't have to deal with condensate either. (Win/Win). DAMHIK :lol_hitti

Installing the tubing is relatively cheap up front; especially if you DIY. The rest of it can be done later when funds allow. If you don't DIY some jurisdictions require a licensed plumber to lay tubing - significantly adding to the expense. My $.02

My wife pays that utility bill. I asked last winter if the warm garage had much impact on the costs - she said she didn't notice it. I'm in North Dakota for reference - NG and foamed tight 24x38' with lots of garage door.

When I built last summer I updated to 400a. 200 for house and 200 for garage. It cost very little extra to overbuild it. I'm ready for whatever the future brings (fast charging?, welder?, table saw? a/c? - all at the same time? No problem).

I used a sticky glass mesh and stucco directly on the foam on the house a few years ago and it's held up everywhere I didn't touch it with the weed wacker. On my garage last summer I hung the walls over the perimeter insulation and ran a ring of two foot tall strips of green plywood to earth...

I have been wrestling with this problem as well. My current solution is to neutralize and fill a 50 gallon rain barrel. I drain it once every 2 weeks into the yard. Not an elegant solution, but is a temporary fix for now that requires very little maintenance. I'll recommend an industrial can on...

Each situation is different. I found this thread looking for a solution to my own garage humidity problem: 900sq', 10' walls, completely foamed tight with closed cell up to R24. Radiant in slab, North Dakota (below 0F and getting cooler this week). Major moisture problem now due to snow melt...

I used my local lumberyard guy. We talked and went through several iterations of plan before we settled on a final version. It was only $800 and worth every penny. It also made material orders easy because they speced everything up front. I was the general so YMMV. It turned out great!

It seems that having ballast compatible bulbs is just another part to go wrong. Doesn't a ballast consume energy too?