Recent content by BUDD

I'm not sure what it is you need, can you post a picture? as for glass that can take a high heat, it's ceramic glass, all new woodstoves use it and pyrex bowls are made of it.

heres a good idea, if you have to cover it up you can at a later date.

I would like to use hardwood sawdust, but there are almost no hardwood trees growing on the west coast, the maple and alder trees that do grow here do not make good firewood, i guess they just grow too fast and are not dense enough. i have cut down lots of alder that was 24" or more on the ****...

the videos of mills i have seen do not use a binder, or should i say most, i'm not going to use a binder, lignin is the natural binder allready present in wood, heres a site with some prices and info on makeing pellets, http://www.alaskapelletmill.com/flat_plate_pellet_mills the sawdust i'll...

i'm thinking of building my pellet mill along these lines, http://www.pelletmill.net/wood_pellet_machine.html

just to add to my post about making my own pellets, i just got off the phone with a trucking company that delivers sawdust for horse bedding, 7 tons of dry sawdust dropped off at my shop will cost me $276.00 plus tax, the cost of making a pellet mill will be mostly my time as i have everything...

i'm looking at using pellets for heat, in my shop and in my home, i have a free pellet fireplace and looks almost unused, the flue leaked around the cap and water made it's way into the pellet hopper, so it looks like it was only used a couple times, anyway, i want to built my own pellet mill...

insulation, what are your outside walls covered with? could you patch up where the hole for blowin insulation would be, most big building suply stores rent out the machine to do blowin insulation yourself.

i would of put a 45 degree bend 1/2" from the edges of your 3" flat bar, would of been a nice touch, same weight and no wibble wobble.

do you have a Fireplce or woodstove? anything you use in your home that burns has to have air to burn, if it's a fireplace all the CFM's of air going up the flue has to be replaced with cold outside air being drawn in through cracks around windows and doors, most modern woodstoves have a way...

your stove is exempt from EPA, it is either called a frunace or the air to fuel ratio is such that EPA doesnt apply, lots of pellet stoves fall under EPA exempt do to air to fuel ratio, the effency goes down when the air to fuel ratio goes up, i guess i should of included the EPA exemptions in...

i removed a heat pump and air handler from a friends house, the rad/core in the air handler looks like it could work well for a hot water heating system, maybe just use a complete air handler and run hot water through it, blower and all.

one thing to try to control smoke coming out the door is to open it a crack, wait till your flue starts drawing again and then open the door slowly, that process is quite common on current stoves, sence your still in the R&D part of your woodstove i think i would try running it without the heat...

growing up my parents had a wood and oil boiler in their hourse, it was a factory made and approved unit, it had two doors, the door on the right had the oil burner in the center and the door on the left was solid and was used when you were burning wood, when i was lazy i would fill the firebox...

i can give you a little advice on woodstoves i spent 15 years at Pacific Energy woodstoves, allot of the time i worked in R&D, i also am the owner of the trademark name FISHER WOODSTOVES, some of you old guys may remember them, i'm currently working to reintroduce them back on the market, all...