Recent content by budhabaier

Bert, Thanks for the detailed reply; I think you answered a most of my questions. I do have a pair of 200a fuses I could use. If I did, would this allow me to extend the distance to the sub-panel? I need to make it about 45 ft. If not, I will just go back to feeding from the 200a panel...

I hate resurrecting old threads, but, it's mine and I have had a slight change in plans. I have to add a 100a sub-panel for an apartment in the basement. My new questions are: Can I feed this panel off of the small lugs in the disconnect? Also, could I feed this with SER Al 2-2-2-4 or 1-1-1-3...

I attached a couple of extra pictures showing the bonding ******** the neutral block and the bonding bushing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, I have new questions now. If I replace the two panels with one large panel, then I will have to replace the existing conductors between the disconnect and the new panel. For a 200a panel, Aluminum SER 4/0-4/0-4/0-2/0 appears to be appropriate. The existing wire out of the disconnect is 500...

I killed power and opened the disconnect after work. All the wiring is aluminum. Lines are 500 mcm, neutral is 4/0, and the ground and bond cables are both 1/0. In the teough/raceway the 500 mcm from the disconnect splits into a 250 mcm to each panel, I didn't note what the neutral does. I am...

a) That is a big fear, but because of the disconnect I could replace those cables without significant issue. b) All cloth covered wiring to the panels will be eliminated. The remaining cloth covered wiring is in the attic and upper floor walls. This will be replaced in about 2 years when the...

House was built in 1951 and is about 2000 ft2 upstairs and about 700 ft2 in a walk-out basement. The house was built as a builder's personal home; he built a lot of homes in this neighborhood during that time period.

Looking through some other pictures I think I see a ground bushing lug for the second ground conductor. I attached as close-up. Based on what has been said here and what I've read elsewhere, it would be proper to use a 4 ga solid bare copper wire from the neutral/ground lug in the disconnect...

I think you are correct. It is hard to see, but in another picture it looks like a lug peeking around the edge of the cable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is the panel upstairs that is being eliminated. The breakers on this one have a tendency to close on there own after being opened. Even after moving the cover around. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The other looks like it goes back up the conduit from the weather head. Since the meter uses current transformers and is not directly connected, could it be for the meter and it's head? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@sberry, As some more background, the upstairs of the house is actually served by a sub-panel (which I believe to be the original, as built panel(more like breakers stuck in a wall)) that is fed from left side panel. All the upstairs wiring is cloth covered 2-wire, the NM serves the downstairs...

A lesson I have learned. The electrician I paid to inspect took about half day the "home inspector" took about 90 minutes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is residential. Some, not all, of the wiring was hidden behind a partition. As an aside, the inspector was pretty bad and I didn't push back as hard as should have. As a result, we now have gutted about 80% of the basement due to old termite damage, wiring, asbestos, and water damage. But...

Hello to all, I am planning the replacement of two load centers in my new (to me) home. The house was built in 1951 and is feeling the effects of 66 years of updates (neglect). I have a couple of questions that have come up prior to starting and I hope that you all can help with them. I plan...