Recent content by Captain Sparky

I think your thinking of the gas valve. I'm talking about the pressure switch. Let me know if I'm wrong.

A couple of things to check on the pressure switch is to make sure the electrical connections to the P/S are good and clean. I would also check the tubing that is connected to the pressure switch and make sure those connections are good and snug, the tubing has no become brittle and developed...

Sorry to hear about your situation. A 2 or 3 flash code has to with the pressure switch either failing open or closed and I'm not sure why you did not get a flash code when the exhaust venter was cycling on and off? Check it out the next time you feel up to it and let me know.

Are you getting any type of flash code off the light on the gas valve? I have attached a manual for your series heater that lists the codes in the end of the manual. (the wiring in the manual shows it with the 3H36849-1 board)

The 5H79749 board is used on the current version heater and will not work on your model. The only board is the Fan timer board 3H36849-1. The electronics that operate the unit you have are built into the head of the gas valve.

This is a good troubleshooting guide but keep in mind he has an original unit that used the Honeywell Smart Valve ( the electronics are built into the head of the valve) and was hot surface ignition where the manual is for the current version that has a separate valve, ignition control board and...

You definitely have a lot of erratic things going on. The first thing I would do is to rule out the thermostat and take both of the wires off the terminal block and then use a jumper wire to see if the unit starts firing normally. The second thing I would check is to make sure your polarity is...

There is a company called Detroit Radiant Products that makes a low ceiling model tube heater under the name ReVerbeRay and the model is a LS3 (single stage) and LD3 (two stage) www.reverberray.com/products/commercial-industrial/low-intensity-infrared-radiant-tube-heaters/ls3-series/

A couple of things you can check is to drop the burner out of the heater and see if any of the ports on top of the burner have split where the have been spot welded together and you can also run something inside the burner orifices to make sure no spider webs have been built inside them.

Wiring diagrams are on their way.

Sorry for the delay in responding but I just emailed you the manual. Let me know if you need the wiring diagram.

I have the install manual and wiring diagrams for the Modine PD series unit heaters which should answer alot of your questions if you want them just give me a email address. One thing to keep in mind is that with a gravity vent heater your horizontal run can only be 75% of your vertical run...

That is surprising they don't give the total amps, but from my calculations I believe you are correct with a 30 amp breaker.

Unfortunately there is no way to increase the BTU output as the 30 MBH unit uses 2 orifices and a 45 MBH uses 3 orifices. Also the HD model is a straight power vented unit and a HDS model would be seperated combustion.

The ReVerberRay DR Series is a High Intensity Infra-Red heater and does not have any fan on the unit, the low intensity tube heater type have fans/blower.