Recent content by Chris705

A couple of thoughts or opinions that as you work with your contactor and develop a contract (this isn’t only directed at your project but a lot of other members who ask similar questions about their projects or after they have gotten into a project and things go sideways). When you present...

Rochester glass block company.

I like option #3. Not sure if members know that chloroplast is a plastic version of corrugated cardboard. A simple cost effective solution to protect the underside of your box!

Have you tried to pressure wash it yet?

You don’t have to keep them together. Just staple them to underside of sheathing……but if you are blowing in loose insulation be sure to use some sort of barrier to prevent lose insulation from falling down into soffit.

As a rafter tie and only maybe supporting lightweight ‘stuff’. Go ahead and make your 1” notch and then glue/screw the next smaller sized 2x along side the notched rafter ties.

Sounds like you have done your homework! I think two loops would be fine with the length you’re running. Rule of thumb is under 300’ for 1/2”. I can’t comment on the boiler. The details on the thickened slab and insulation also would work but I wonder with an engineered slab if you might...

Can’t win if I’m not in…..

OP - as you begin to insulate, please inquire from your foam sprayer what amount of that thick ceiling foam could potentially be used to cover all walls and ceiling to a uniform thickness…. I think using closed cell foam as an air infiltration barrier is awesome but it needs to be thick enough...

OP you maybe able to find a local on-line auction site that auctions new building materials including kitchen cabinets. I have a few around me in the finger lakes area of NY that offer greatly discounted auction sales. I think you may even find a run or two of black cabinets.

If you like the look of the open soffit for your shed and/or perhaps you’re matching the detail of another building on your lot, then I say proceed with what you’re describing. Yes ideally for a home or conditioned space you’d want to tie the sheathing up into rim board space…. It would have...

Look at Fentrim by Siga.

I would use a small bead of silicone caulking…. I believe it would pull up fairly easily and also pull off of the rubber molding….just reapply each year

If you were originally thinking metal siding/roofing and intended to still go that route then I’d be inclined to stay with the post frame construction for the cost savings. If you thought about siding/roofing to match the home and maybe some dormers to dress it up a bit then I’d switch you to...

I wouldn’t want to let my studs and frost battle it out with the posts and pier footings in my area of weather. Frost will win over time. Either one losing is a problem. As you stated your slab will be protected.