Recent content by ckyle29

My situation is a little different, as I have clear panels at the top of my walls, right where the wall meets the trusses (didn't put in the roof as we have hail. I heat and A/C my shop and have never had an issue with the plastic panels sweating. I would think that as long as your attic is...

I have a 30 X 60 pole barn shop and the one thing I had wished I had done differently was to have the garage doors 12 feet wide. My Tundra mirrors nearly scrape in the 10 foot wide doors and my pontoon boat BARELY fits. My building is 50 feet from the back of my house and I sure wouldn't want...

I'm just north of Dallas/Fort Worth and my building has been up for three years now. Fully book-shelved inside, attached to the poles, and plywood/OSB attached to all interior walls. No sign of movement and no cracks at all in the concrete. But my area has a sold limestone base about four...

I think the biggest concern you have attaching directly to the posts is from frost heave. If your ground doesn't move, you will be ok, but if you have ground freeze in your area and your posts move, your walls may rack up & down. Here in North Texas, we don't have ground freeze to worry...

With a 10 pound/sf BCDL you can easily support the ceiling, lights and insulation. A 4 X 8 sheet of OSB is approximately 46 pounds, but it is spread out over a 32 square foot area, so that's 46 pounds hanging from an area rated for 320 pounds. I have the same 10 pound/sf BCDL on my shop, with...

I hung my OSB with 1" Torx screws and put on two coats of Kilz, with no top coat. Looks great after three years but I have so much stuff on the walls there wasn't any point in putting on a top coat.

My 30 X 40 is rectangular. Just for reference, I have 10 duplex, 3 four-plex and one 240 for a total of 33 outlets. For lights, I have 12 8-footers with T5 bulbs, along with task lighting on the bench. 100 amps.

If by "house wrap" you mean Tyvek, don't use it. Use a vapor barrier. Per the Dupont website, Tyvek is not a vapor barrier, it allows condensed vapor to pass through it. It is more of an air blocker but also allows water vapor (but not bulk water) to pass from inside of walls out. And no...

This. On all your outside walls, you want the vapor barrier on the outside of the insulation. I'm just north of Dallas, so I'm still warm more months than cold, so the barrier went on the outside of the insulation in my building. On my interior dividing wall, which is also 2x6 and batt...

The rep for the Morgan location in McKinney, TX straight out told me he didn't want to drive 30 miles to discuss my project. So I looked at Mueller in Sherman, TX, which is steel buildings, and none of their builders ever returned a phone call. I ended up using a company in Oklahoma.

The girts on the outside of the pole that the metal fastens to will create a 1.5 inch gap (assuming 2X4 girts) between the pole and the metal, perfect for running around the pole. That's what my electrician did for long runs along the walls.

I framed my pole barn between the 8" OC posts and ran the studs horizontally. I was working by myself, so there was no way I could build frame walls and lift them into place myself, so working one row at a time was perfect for what I was accomplishing. Plus a pole barn ain't exactly perfectly...

For me it was a question of cost and the fact that I was doing all the work myself. By putting up the pole building and then framing later, I was able to spread the cost out and pay as I went. Plus, none of my friends are handy with a hammer, so it was all on me. I book-shelved my studs...

I've had a 10X12 Tuff Shed for 10 years now. At one time, I had a Cub Cadet and two Hondas parked in there at the same time, and the floor has easily held up. When I needed to move it, I just jacked it up high enough to get some 4X4 posts under it to act as a sled and just pulled it with my...