Recent content by cmandp

Those are common thicknesses of feeler guages

Yeah I have fround i dont like my Komelon tape either. It slowly creeps closed when doing flat work and the rounded shape falls over easily. I prefer the good old chrome Stanleys

I think there are certain situations they can make things easier but I don't use them very often and have never tried them for automotive work. The only pair I have are a pair of Irwins made by NWS but they are made for eletrical work. They can be handy for getting at wire in tight electrical...

@cgrutt I was in support of you working on just those parts and not just replacing the whole compressor and recharging the system. What you did was quicker especially without the recovery equipment, refrigerant, oil and scale.

I'll be honest, my experience with A/C systems on cars is this: Once something goes wrong that you lose the factory charge, it has to be messed with every few years at a minimum. Maybe it's the aftermarket compressors, hoses or seals and new OEM would last longer. But both my and my wife's...

It says in the instructions to use secondary supports like jack stands. But I've never seen them used with stands in videos or pictures. It also seems impractical when the frames cover the best points to use jack stands on. Do you guys that have them use stands also?

I threw out an (admittedly cheaper) LED table light that melted the charge board somehow. I really wanted to use it to practice repairing something like that but just didnt have the time. I dont like how something simple goes wrong on thing like this and they are basically e-waste. But thats...

I am really considering a set of quick jacks but the lack of serviceablity and how susceptible they are to the pivots rusting is a bit concerning. The pivots really should have grease zerks.

When i think machinist level i think of 0.0005" per foot.

I agree trying to open it more is probably making the issue worse. Any misalignment of the pivot axes (there are four of them) in addition to lack of roundness in the tube and pin plus rust I could see it.

I'd be frustrated at this point with these. I'd probably put a nice block of wood over each joint and hit it with my 8# sledge. Alternate back and forth

To add an alternative theory: Could it be that somehow you got these ramps to go way past their usual range of motion? Could parts that don't normally touch or interfere be wedged together?

The corrugated tubing is not code compliant and just not a good idea. The trap also needs a 2" seal height minimum so that typical suction on the DMV system cannot empty the trap of water and cause a sewer gas leak. I would say plumb it the right way. Cut the slab, install p-trap. You have...

Roofing screws with the rubber washers must be installed perpendicular while being tight enough to give the rubber a little pre-load but not too tight squishing the rubber washer out. I'd replace any suspect ones with longer or larger diameter screws properly driven. Ones like the first one...

I didn't see anywhere but maybe I missed it. What do the locating features on the backing plate measure for runout? Turning the chuck locating features would be my last resort...