Recent content by cmc76

the cracks dont look like they are heaving, maybe just shrinkage over time. you could look at cutting the slab overall 1/4" or so, routing a v groove and using a sika 111 or something comparable. epoxy over. but without knowing if it is still moving it may just open up again later.

This is interesting as i have done it before, but for a garage that had a wall, not thickened edge slab. with the walls resting, it appears to be just that. a few things to consider. - the saw cuts are going to have to be perfectly straight. I would cut through rather than score for demo. They...

before just pumping as much as possible, back up a step. do you have water intrusion? air getting by? caulk is not meant to just pump in as much as you can. get backer rod. ( foam that comes in diameter in rolls ) that gets pushed in first. depth will depend on your gap. then you apply your...

Nasman, i took a look though your blog. Incredible project and incredible attention to detail. We could all learn allot from your build. I hope all is well and keep up the great work.

a few reasons actually. - not everyone has the luxury of just pulling out of property they own and relocating. Especially since i noted the improvement of the area with time. - this issue is as much principal as it is practical. the term " soft targets' exists for a reason. I lived in about as...

on the amazon listing for it, says to have 4.25" min. for the peace of mind, i would still go 5"

i dont have one. but i dont think i would ever bother pouring anything less than 5" unless it was just a topping slab.

I appreciate the good ideas. Keep them coming. In reality, its not THAT bad of an area. If anything, getting better by the day. Allot of property improvements. Yuppies parachuting in from space. But in the meantime. I still want to protect what is mine. I love dogs. But what i love even more is...

they can grind a " v groove" , fill with a product like sika 111 and then saw cut at full cure. This is assuming your soil is really well compacted. If you have any settlement at all. No matter the product you risk it popping.

as for the ones in " bad" areas. pretty much the same buy put " hyper" in front. I had to chase off two drunk hobos who i think were eyeing my mower last year. So i really havent had an issue. Surprising what a reputation as a " crazy white dude with a shovel" will do as theft deterrent. But If...

I am doing some planning and thought i would put together my first actual post and see if anyone has ideas. I am planning a build of a garage/shop structure. I live in a " ok" area. But there are still lurking hobos, **** birds, drunks, clowns, assholes and general thieves. So during planning...

if the slab is poured, wait. If it is not, price out an admixture like " high early". 28 days is standard, though many mix designs will achieve and even pass their design strengths early. John had good advice, your supplier can give you the mix design with data logs for their breaks. They may be...

you can use an FRP product. Its typically used in commercial kitchens, mop closets etc. Its thin, about 1/8" can be applied to block with no issues. and is designed to be sprayed down.

If some unforeseen settling happens under the slab the rebar will help keep slab integrity, JMO. - This is absolutely dead on. While shrinkage is a factor in cracking, and mind you this is why we use control joints. I have removed dozens of slabs where the " compacted granular" material...

when you say that your garage has a "footer" are your referring to a frost wall? or it has a thickened edge slab? i know Indiana varies quite a bit between north and south as far as the elements. My first impression would be you have some settling.