Recent content by Compy222

^ that's super helpful. i did talk to the local vendor for overhead door and they indicated the model that i have - MT5011E is a slightly older commercial unit that is not MyQ compatible and adding wifi compatibility would also be a concern as my doors don't have sensors. Without sensors you...

We were hoping for wireless access to the doors (not just from a car, but more along the lines of a MyQ system). Talked to a local vendor and the liftmaster folks said that MyQ isn't compatible and we'd need to replace the openers. It looks like the garagesmart stuff is the only option, but cost...

We have two large commercial style doors in our shop, they look like normal insulated garage doors but are 14.5t x 10w. These have the traditional three button commercial remotes that switch two chain drive commercial liftmasters. Does anyone know or recommend a system to go to wifi control of...

As another option the G-Floor style vinyl mats might be worth considering. 10x22 55mil mats are around 250 each. They are mobile and prwtty easy to use. You can pick any color you want too.

I've got something similar to this. Its a decora sized 1w LED panel that goes in a box. I've got mine in a three gang near my garage door. 1 LED panel, light switch and double plug. At night its jist enough light to keep you from tripping over yourself. It even has a small photosensor.

I've got 3 of the 85w in our garage with 10.5 ceilings. Its super bright, but that's also with finished white ceilings. If you could drop them 12-18 inches that'd be prefect. I'd also consider the reflector housings pictured above.

3x 85w/300w cfls ceiling mounted 4x 45w/150w cfls ceiling mounted 8x 23w/90w cfl floods wall mounted in 2x adjustable fixtures 680sqft 3 car, nearly 2k watts of lighting...its pretty bright.

just as a suggestion that is also cheaper and easier...have you considered the big CFL's? you've got 100w equivalent CFLs up now, why not jump up to 300w equivalent ones. you have the ceiling space to work with (they hang down 8-10 inches). you might need to replace your "fixtures" with the...

so at that point are you disassembling the entire ceiling? it doesn't appear to be a zero clearance set-up. my guess is they literally put the tiles in as they worked their way across.

This doesn't exactly fall into the subforums, so I decided to post here. I've got a drop ceiling that was installed by the previous owner of our home. It looks good and the tiles are all in good shape. There is one problem though...whomever installed it, tucked it up against the joists above...

i am curious about this topic as well. we just purchased a home built in 2001 that has nothing done to the concrete driveway or garage floor. any advice on products and application would be appreciated.

they do take a minute or two to "come up" in sub-freezing weather. it's not as much of a concern as i have an insulated garage and it normally stays above freezing inside. given the relative light and size of the bulbs though, even at 50% they are still pretty bright.

I use a 4 drawes for my car detailing stuff. Top drawer is exterior wash products. Then wax/after wash exterior products including my da polisher. Then interior cleaning products. Bottom drawer is my handhld vacuum and other odds/ends.

I'd consider buying a couple of the "big" CFLs like I did. They are only about 15 dollars each. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=239334 Starting with Light Bulbs!?! And I'd also consider at least 2 hanging t8 double fixtures that plug into your open sockets. That's just...

not going to miss the fan ceiling. we're living in a rental now that apparently was owned by the guy that developed the neighborhood, so it has a giant garage, really a small 3 car, but with one double door. it's pretty awesome, fully insulated, but still haven't figured out why the ceiling is...