Recent content by cooljw

The 2nd coat was definitely thinner as much less was required since the concrete was already coated with a 1st layer. But it's not like I was trying to put down as little as possible. I actually put down a little heavier 2nd coat in places where I was trying to mask some uneven texture in my...

Thanks everyone. It did indeed seem to be resilient channel. I ended up finding much larger and longer hooks to hang my bikes with. Needed to buy a matching drill bit to put a hole through the metal first, and then switch to a smaller bit to put a pilot hole in the wood. But the hooks are in...

I think this is what I have! Because when drilling through I did seem to notice a small air gap between the drywall and metal. I guess I'll just look for some really long screws then.

I am curious, yes, but I also can't mount the hooks I have. The screw on the hook I have isn't long enough to get all the way to the wood. I guess I should find a hook with a really long screw end, or something different altogether (which is why I'm asking on the forum).

The metal is about 1/16" thick - takes some effort to drill through (that's how I knew it wasn't ductwork). I guess it's not really "sheet metal". Is it possible I just got really unlucky and hit two different galvanized steel brackets or joints?

It is a two-story home and there is no attic above the garage so I can't peek at anything. I wanted to put hooks in the ceiling to hang some mountain bikes upside down.

Might be a noob question but here goes. I am trying to hang stuff from my garage ceiling. I seem to have a ceiling constructed of drywall backed by sheet metal, is this possible? What's the right way to mount things in a ceiling like this? This is a new construction home and the whole garage...

I worry that using so many paint chips to the point of rejection will cause a fairly weak bond with the chips and the epoxy. So even if you top coat with clear epoxy, the chips could still come off the layer of epoxy underneath and cause the entire finish to fail. Is that a valid concern, does...

Was it hard to paint the stripes on the wall? What technique did you use to get the razor sharp edges and proper alignment?

When epoxying an otherwise flat and smooth concrete garage floor, how do you get that really lumpy bumpy finish? Here is an example: Is it just a matter of doing a number of coats with lots of paint flakes on each coat? How many coats? How much paint flakes? When I epoxied my garage floor I...

Only certain Frazee stores (typically the largers ones) sell it.

On the negative side, it's actually a bit flexible of a floor coating, so it's not as impervious to scratching as I would like - don't get me wrong, it still takes quite a bit of effort to scratch the coating. On the positive side, it's been impervious to chemicals, hot tires...etc. It cleans...

I used: Amershield VOC (http://www.frazee.com/products/specs/ameron.htm) It's not a polyamide epoxy, but aliphatic polyurethane (whatever the heck that is). It's an industrial product, used on concrete and metal. For example, the exposed metal rafters at PetCo park are covered with this stuff...

Just wanted to post a follow-up on my project. I ended up using Amershield by Frazee Paint, because they sent me a new homeowner 30% off coupon. This is industrial stuff, so I figured it would be better than the Rustoleum Pro - plus with the coupon it cost about the same. It doesn't come with...

What Rustoleum probably meant was that for residential use, your floor won't experience the kind of wear and tear that would make using the stronger solvent-based formula beneficial. From what I understand, the solvent-based stuff is always more durable and long lasting. It is also able to...