Recent content by cpakalolo

Yes, vapor barriers restrict the moisture from getting to the surface that is colder than the moist air's dew point. In the winter, even on a day with 100% humidity, there isn't much water in the air. The moisture travels through the exterior and the insulation with ease. It then condenses if...

You should still use vapor barrier under sheetmetal. In the corners, where the j-channel is the plastic should overlap and be taped to form a complete barrier. It is impossible to seal the metal in the corners as well as if there is a plastic barrier. Down South, the condensation sometimes is...

And I'm certainly not faulting you for saying you wouldn't.

People around here do strong panel on houses regularly. They screw the flats on plywood covered with hip and valley roll with the really sticky stuff. The screws have to have "captive" washers and they will seal on the ice dam or valley roll. I have seen one that acquired a small ceiling...

I am doing my garage ceiling now and I think I'm going with sheetmetal. I will put up a vapor barrier so that I don't need to caulk the seams. Paneling is too hard to do and not cheap. The rest of the shop is textured drywall, but I don't do drywall and the guy I use is building his son a...

I have used 1/4" osb twice and never again. My father's customer wanted it and he eventually paid to have it replaced. 7/16 seems not much thicker, but osb was designed with that dimension in mind. They just don't make a good quarter inch product.

The building was built to a certain standard whatever that may be. The sheathing layers are always assumed in a truss schedule. The weight is standardized as the same as fire-code 5/8" sheetrock. The 7/16" OSB will be just fine. If you want to go lightweight, you could do exterior sheet...

They also have a condensate line that is plumbed directly out the wall. The power goes to the outdoor unit and the inside unit is usually wired to get power from the outdoor unit.

Wherever you put it, make sure you have really good access. And make sure anything you have below it can get wet.

I am thinking the same as you. The high lift sees less tension at the end. The vertical sees consistent tension as it goes up. Since I am going up one foot and then at a 5/12 slope, so it will act more like a vertical lift. I am going to weigh the door for new springs and make up the...

I don't want bolts sticking up from the floor if lift gets moved. That's the reason I am going with Hilti. The HIS Internally threaded anchors are the ones to use. They are just so darn expensive. I paid over 45 bucks a piece.

Thanks for the video.

You are mostly right. The higher the frequency, the more it travels through the outer skins. Some cables are not cables at all. Look at a cell tower. Those cables are corrugated copper tubes coated in vinyl. They are not even smooth. The walls are crinkled so the current leaves the...

You don't. That's the reason I made the comment. I know the concrete guys and I can test the concrete if I want. I have tested a lot of concrete for highway construction. You know, the guy who makes all those holes in brand new highways. I had a lot to do with figuring out what happened to...

I wrote the previous reply to someone who was asking about the Hilti anchors. I researched the topic until it was dead. I got em, but they will add about 800 bucks to your install. They use an 1 /14 hole, so you are getting twice the circumference for the epoxy to grip or adhere. Oh, I have...