Recent content by ctandc72

I've done this on multiple square bodies. What I've always done, with no issues, is jack the rear of the truck up via the rear differential high enough to get the rear wheels off the ground. Remove the wheels. I personally use 6 ton floor jacks on the rear frame rails, then remove the floor...

I concur. But to be fair - the Daytona replaced a Harbor Freight low profile 3 ton I bought 20 years ago - that still works fine. I didn't think it was low profile and $100 off helped. It does roll easier than my old jack - and the body of the jack itself is considerably longer which is useful.

Yeah, but it's not as amusing as starter fluid. Did it once (long story) at gas station on the NJ Turnpike coming home in the wee hours of the morning after patching a tire on a car I had just bought and was driving home. The guy running the gas station almost had a heart attack. LMAO

Dammit - I hate this place. I will just keep repeating "I do not have room in my shop. I do not have room in my shop."

Keep posting the shop stuff. You can stop posting all those pictures of that perfect lawn and landscaping though. That is bragging. I can't look at your posts sitting next to my wife, it's shameful. It's why I moved to the woods in the first place.

Managed to get the urethane upper strut bushings installed between a weekend of work on the property. Still need to set my rig up and make sure TOE in isn't out of spec. I took apart the alternator that was on my '04 GT When I bought it. It's a Ford stamped part. I had a feeling the brushes...

LOL To be fair, I've seen heavy wear like this before and it's normally after one of the bearings has started to go.

What he said. Get the flap wheel out. Where there are pinholes there are at least weak spots or other rot. At least take a dead blow / sledge and see how sound the floor is.

Finally tore apart the original (spare now) alternator from my 04 Mustang GT. Voltage regulator brushes are worn, and the slip ring shaft (that the brushes ride on) is grooved - so new slip ring. Checking the rectifier part numbers - it's a rebuilder number, in a Motorcraft / Ford stamped...

I feel your pain. Last time I was this deep into a front end, I tore the calipers apart - the certain model I was working on is famous for the phenolic (plastic) caliper pistons swelling and sticking in the bore, essentially making the calipers wear items. After some digging found out that I...

I'm sure someone will critique it - but the way I have done it for years is this: - Get two jack stands - Pick a side of the car - Run a line tied to the jack stands so the height of the string rungs roughly right across the middle of the hub of the wheels - At the rear wheel position the line...

You have a white suit / hat to match? That's an epic Halloween setup.

This right here. Why not drain / pump out the fuel in the tank and use a cheap inspection camera to see what the inside actually looks like before going to all that trouble / $ to 'fix' something that might not need it? Recently sold a vehicle that had been sitting for 4-5 years with 3/4 tank...

Could have been worse. You could have been in a shop (I was teenager) when someone decided to weld on an old steel motorcycle tank without any other precautions. "It's empty. It'll be fine." Needless to say - that guy wasn't working in that shop the next day.

Someone else besides me? I don't mind wiring work at all. It soothes me for some weird reason. Of course, it helps to have a OEM wiring manual / diagram, but I've wired / rewired harnesses for engine swaps / repair, audio, custom harnesses etc and everything else and I don't mind it at all.