Recent content by Davefr

Elma's are excellent units (made in Germany) but be prepared for a hefty price premium over the no name Chinese units. You'll get features like frequency shift, sweep and heaters that bring the tank temp up very quickly.

...along the same lines, some new corded tools comes with a PVC power cord with a constant "hard on". I immediately rewire some of them with a power cord that flexible. The latest example was my shop vac which was a trip hazard. I hate PVC!! What happend to rubber power cords?

I think you need to trace where every wires goes and then draw up a diagram for your exact motor. If you feel it's wired correctly and still has problems diasable the centrifical start so the start winding is never in circuit. Now wrap a cord around the motors shaft and turn it on. Pull the...

I had a Trexton anvil almost like yours. The face doesn't look bad from what I see and I'd leave it as is. (I've seen far worse!!!) I would certainly not weld to it!!! Maybe just clean it up a little.

I wouldn't base a manufacturer's reputation based on one instance here. I'm not implying the OP didn't have an issue with Wright, but it could simply be a misunderstanding or the rep having a bad day. Users have had "one off" warranty issues with almost all tool companies. If they've become a...

Brushed cordless tools still have one advantage. They're simple. (ie Battery, motor and switch.) Brushless have a control board and if it goes bad it's a $100+ part. Some Makita brushless tools have had control board problems and unless the tool is under warranty it's very expensive.

Nothing wrong with old garage sale sandpaper if it's cheap or free. It might not perform like new 3M Cubitron but for odd jobs it's nice to have on hand. But some no name sandpaper is really bad so if I had a "significant" project I'd use the good stuff.

I agree, go with the more common double shielded bearings. I don't see any need for those covers. I'd clean the centrifical switch contacts with very fine sandpaper or a points file and make sure that area is clean.

If the start windings were toast the motor wouldn't spin at all. It would just hum until the breaker went off. The OP should ohm out the start and run windings. Run should measure lower ohms then start and nothing should smell burnt.

It kind of sounds like your start windings aren't being shut off by the centrifical switch. If the start winding stays in circuit the motor will draw excessive current and not sound right. Make sure your tests are brief or the start windings could burn up. Misalignment during assembly can...

Just a guess but maybe your Victor has a two part motor case and only one bell is removable. I can't tell from the image.

Fabulous restorations! Those CM pedestals make it look like those machines would easily fall over from normal use but I guess they're pretty heavy/stable.

I quit using stains a long time ago and choose to use Transtint analine dye. (water or alcohol soluble). They do much better job. After you die your projects you can use the topcoat of your choice. Dyes enhance the natural grain and provide more vibrant colors...

End bells need to be separated from the main body of the motor. For the baldor tap that raised shoulder on the end bells where the bolt goes thru and gradually work your way around the circumference of the motor. A flat head screwdriver might work. On the Victor it looks like you'll need to...

Not really guesswork but with an ohmeter you can usually figure it out. Almost all capacitor start motors share this basic wiring diagram. Just trace where every lead goes and wire it up. (start winding ohms is > run winding ohms).