Recent content by Davey4000

Originally Posted by Thruxton I looked at these for my barn and the higher wattage bulbs had a warning on them that they should not be mounted vertically, base up - obviously a temperature consideration on the circuit contained in the base- anyone have problem with shorter than normal bulb...

I'm putting 33 105W @ 6500K in my 40x60. The bulbs are backordered and I won't get them until the first week in Feb. After reading your post I'm wondering if I'll need to wear shades in my shop. I'm glad to hear you are having good results with the large CFL's and I look forward to getting...

I cannot get mine out of the door either without partial disassembly. For those who are talking about moving it intact on a flatbed trailer I cannot take a chance going 325 miles, on interstate, passing three weight stations and being about 2 feet over width. I think I’ll remove the line from...

I’m moving and taking my Direct Lift 4 post lift with me. What’s the best way to empty the hydraulic fluid without making a mess? Anybody done this before? There’s no drain in the bottom of the plastic reservoir. I'm thinking that I'll need to take off the whole motor with reservoir...

Although I didn't test the subpanel before wiring it I am sure it is correct. The neutral bar does not have a strap to the box. A green screw was supplied to bond the neutral bar to the box and it is still in the plastic bag it came in. I had to purchase a separate bar and add it for the...

Thanks FE. Here are my readings at the subpanel (voltages rounded): L1-L2 = 240V L1-N = 120V L2-N = 120V L1-G = 120V L2-G = 120V L1 or L2 to EMT as it leaves the subpanel = 120V N-G = 0V Ohm meter across N and G bars = Continuity just like holding the probes together. Sound okay?

Well, it didn't shut off this morning either. It's a bright sunny day. I held a flashlight on the photocell for about 3 minutes, still stays on. I suppose I'll take the photocell off and try it on something else just to make sure it's working.

It came from Home Depot or Lowe's. Can't remember which. I gave about $14 for it. It's an Utilitech part number 006311 manufactured by Bright Image Corporation, Hillside, IL. Specs: 1800W maximum, 110-130 VAC/1000VA Ballast. It won't be a problem to shine a light into it. My scaffolding...

Yes, hot wire from power source (black) to black wire of the photocell; neutral from power source (white) to white wire of photocell and light; red wire from photocell to 120V wire of light (not black, but stamped 120V). Oh, and green ground wire to green wire of light.

I guess this is my day for electrical questions. I installed a 400W metal halide wall pack light yesterday. It did not come with a photocell for dusk to dawn operation so I added one. I just screwed the photocell into one of the ports on top of the housing. I completed the work outside...

Excellent! Thank you very much for the response.

When adding a subpanel I know you are supposed to isolate the ground and neutral in the subpanel. My question is what exactly is the “electrical” definition of an isolated ground and neutral in the subpanel? In the main panel the grounding bar is bonded to the box. Neutrals (white) and...

Re: Lighting and CFL Thanks Dan. My steel building is 40x60 with 16' walls at the eave. I'm thinking of using 12 fixtures in each of the three 20' bays, no reflectors, CFL wattage yet to be determined based on doing the calculations. Not that I'm against spending the money for...

I know this is an old thread, but I have a question for anyone still following who is knowledgeable in lighting. When using CFL's like Veno used couldn't you forego the reflectors if you have a steel building with white insulation?

Yes, wall pack lights. Thanks for the reply. Makes sense to me!