Recent content by daws87

I'm in Twin Cities area as well, I renovated our attached garage w/ insulated door, new sheetrock w/ R15 in the walls and ~R55 blow in in the attic. Did it all myself as the house already had insulated door. I installed a Big Maxx 50k and keep temp set at 45 degrees all winter. If we plan on...

I don't believe CAT III is double. Just follow the manufacturer's instructions and double check it with current code. I'm in the states and where I live just CAT III with a thimble to keep clearance between combustibles.

Everything I'm reading says LED codes aren't typically thrown for this. While this is a very rare issue for me I'm still going to flip that switch this weekend as it looks to be an easy, straightforward fix.

I installed the Mr Heater Big Maxx 50k a few years ago and also vented horizontal just due to location and it was easy. If the wind is just right I've noticed it short cycling as well. Doesn't happen often and right now I'm just ignoring it but might order that end cap and try it out. My...

In!

My garage is about the same size as yours and I installed the Big Maxx 50k BTU. Keep it at 50 degrees all winter long and if I'm out there for an extended time it gets up to 65-70 degrees very quickly. Menards has the heater right now for a really solid price. I wouldn't put off insulating the...

I installed the 50k Big Maxx about 4 years ago. Zero issues in an insulated garage in MN. Menards has them right now for $389 + the 11% rebate. When it's all said and done the Cat III venting (I ran it horizontal) cost more than the actual heater itself.

I built a J channel block out of some left over J channel the previous homeowner had stashed in the utility room and then carefully caulked behind it on the exterior side w/ some high temp silicone sealant (Red Devil I think). Two years later and zero issues.

You should get, at minimum, one more quote and see where that one lands. On paper, and without knowing where you live, that doesn't seem like a bad deal. Can this $1,100 guy guarantee that when he's done it will be ready for epoxy?

unless you want to air seal the attic, which would involve removing all of the current blown in stuff, I would just add more blown in celulose. Measure the area of the attic, figure out your current insulation depth, figure out what you want it to be based on R value and go to a big box store...

I had the same thing happen to me last year. Did blown in insulation in the garage attic AFTER I installed my Big Maxx and even though I turned the furnace off while I was doing it I think over time it sucked in some of the dust and stuff. Cleaned off flame sensor and haven't had an issue since.

Honestly given the size and the fact that it's insulated I'd just get one of those Mr. Heater Big Buddy propane heaters. You can get them online for like $150 and either run it off those small green propane tanks or buy the hose to hook up a 20# to it. I used one in my fully insulated garage...

I made a small platform in my garage attic for storage and did batts under that and "walled" it in before doing blown in for the remainder of the attic. I of course air sealed everything with spray foam beforehand and added soffit baffles where appropriate. Blown in was incredibly easy albeit...

I did about 30 bags of blown in cellulose this last winter. Took me and a buddy about 3-4 hours when it was all said and done (picking up machine/blowing in/returning machine). HD does a free rental for the blower if you buy 20 bags or more. I'd advise that you air seal any gaps/cable drops/etc...

Lots and lots of variables.... Assuming this garage has NO insulation period (walls/attic/ceiling) then it will be more involved. Are the studs 2x4 roughly 16" on center? If so check out R-15 face insulation at any big box store...