Recent content by dd5

I guess ACCO came out with their first compound (Sturdy) set around '25. It looked different. This redesign probably hit the market in the 50's or 60's. Might have been available until the end of the century. It looks like one side of jaws forces damaged link open. Other side closes/reshapes...

I saw someone ask about this same tool on blogspot. Answer was that they are tire chain pliers and that they might be Weed. If so, anyone have a cat. number? Most chain pliers are not compound like these. Is this set intended for big rig chains?

Actually, there seem to be 2 numbering systems. Some are just 5 numbers, no letters. (I might have found this if I could get Google lens to work on my phone like it used to.) I have a working Penncraft 3/8" electric hand drill. All metal!

very helpful! I have a few of the "fence" guides as well, like the one shown in your first pic.

I notice the brass ones popular now are threaded. Some of mine have 3 steps

None of the guide bushings I see have a double step like these.

Found these with my dad's pipe threading dies. They have numbers like CAH302 and CAH270 stamped on them. I'm guessing they are useless without a tool they attach to.

Inspected the "master cylinder" (pump rod). There is a shaft seal to keep **** out of it. Below that is a spacer and an O-ring. If that O-ring was failing I should see oil leaking up out of it. There is just the small amount you would expect to see. Since that pump works at any lever angle...

The ram fails to lift the jack. Unloaded it goes up, but If I put 160lbs (me) on it, it goes down. I know tubing flare fittings form a metal to metal seal, but much softer metals. I think I'll try an O-ring down there.

I've got this old Sears 2 ton just about figured out. Turning the handle feeds the square core down on a ball bearing. Is that bearing supposed to seal against the metal seat below? There is no O-ring down there (or in exploded view diagrams I've seen). That seat appears to be a solid part of...

Thanks! I'll look for a primary connection cable. All but one cable to the swing arm are plugged in. The one labeled "Trigger" with just two pins is missing. The electric cables for the two lower modules are accounted for. I think the battery cable is only needed to power the timing gun, but...

Found the calibration gas port. It would make sense if the valve selected either cal. gas or test (exhaust) gas, but I can't find a switch that opens the left (facing into cabinet from rear) valve port. Even if that was the correct port for cal. gas, I am back to needing a second T to connect to...

In better light I saw there are two discharge ports in back. One for water and one for exhaust gas. I rerouted the gas discharge to the back port and ran a long line for water, out the water port which probably never had a fitting. (I previously thought it was missing.) The gas module runs...

I slept on it and I have a better idea. I should have been thinking vacuum instead of pressure. The intake of the 2nd pump goes to the top (outlet) of the 3-way valve. The vacuum switch (I previously called it a pressure switch.) connects to the lower valve inlet on the closest side. The main...

Just putting this out there. It looks to me like the plastic T-fitting is for joining the two discharge hoses. (Curiously, the T is larger dia. than all the other fittings.) One discharge hose from the light tube (Need to lift entire module.) and one from the cabinet vacuum pump. (The pump...