Recent content by DHill

Here's mine - the slab has about a 2" every 10' drop to it which is more than you need. 1" drop over 10' is sufficient. You can see how the inner wall of the form is tapered before the pour. Here you can see the perimeter with the sloped floor. One thing I could have done is to put a...

Aceman: thank you for the link to the code book. I will read those sections. IDASHO: that picture is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.

I read several different sections of the code regarding that cable. For direct burial it is not allowed, but for conduit it seem that it is (depending on the language). The "U" prefix after SE supposedly means "underground". The code is arcane - it is labeled "XHHW-2". Apparently if you read the...

The Square D breakers appear to accommodate wire with a maximum size of 3 AWG or 4 AWG (~0.20" or so). That's why I'm wondering if there is a different kind of breaker to use from the house panel. I can't tell if that is a normal breaker or not, but look at this picture. The main feed is in the...

Any other updates on this garage? It is perfect.

I ended up with 2/0 aluminum because it was the closest to 1/0 - actually bigger and higher capacity but all that Graybar had in stock at the time. I am planning for larger upgrades in the main panel. I wanted to run something oversize to the garage so that when I upgrade the main panel I will...

So I've got cable - Graybar did not have the copper I was looking for, so they gave me some 2/0 aluminum Alcan SEU XHHW-2 cable with two conductors and a braided neutral. For conduit I have been told this is fine, and the XHHW-2 apparently means it can be used wet up to 90 C. So now I'm...

My compressor is not as big as yours but it is a 60 gal. Ingersoll Rand and I had issues with the pressure switch. It malfunctioned right out of the box and let the pump run over max pressure. I pulled the plug and got a new switch, fixed the problem. That Eaton compressor in the pic above is a...

I very much appreciate the suggestions to run a second conduit. This a great idea and I am doing that now - thanks for convincing me. I am also very appreciative of the detailed responses. If I can find the materials, here is my recipe (I think): Qty (2): Black 1/0 Copper (hots) Qty (1)...

You should put in a footer to your frost line to avoid any undulation that may occur as the ground shifts and possibly heaves as a result of freezing/warm/moist conditions. You should also consider the codes - any kind of wall structure should usually be fastened to the footer so that a strong...

Costs depend on materials in your area. But I can try to give you quantities for my 24x24 garage, stick built with 2x6 walls, insulation, and 5/8 plywood on both sides, Hardiplank fiber cement siding, and (in progress) 100 A electrical service, upstairs attic. All labor is mine except for...

If you change your mind and want to use bolts, you could rent a thermal camera to see what you are shooting. I had an insulation contractor come out and look at our walls in our house with a B&W thermal camera for $50. Amazing what you can see.

Sodium hydroxide dissolves most organic materials (it is the working ingredient in Drano). Maybe if you drill holes and fill them with Drano it will slowly eat it away? NaOH is not an acid, but the other side of the pH scale - yummy soapy alkaline. NaOH is also easier to work with in terms of...

Granted I haven't done it yet for my in-progress project, but my plan was to use the glossiest stuff I could find for only the functional purpose of reflecting as much light as possible into the work area. I've spent too many years working in cold, wet, dimly lit areas.

Thanks to the OP for the info in this post. :thumbup: Are there "crimp" fittings for air hoses like the ones you buy from the store? Fittings with NPT ends that you can cut your own length of hose? I've been looking for something like that for a long time. I would imagine there is a crimper...