Yeah I mean my garage itself is bigger (25x28 with 9’ ceilings) and does an OK job keeping 78 degrees with a 12000 btu system. But I think you highlighted my point, it’s just OK. It’ll never get down to 72 on a hot day (and we have a lot of really hot days).
Not that I need it to…. But I would...
There’s no cap to pull… if I take off the covers there’s a drain exit on one end and that’s got it’s own permanently affixed cover that has its own slats. All the debris accumulates there and I have to scoop it out for it to drain properly.
Now that you mention it maybe I oughta just cut that...
So my garage is downhill a bit, and thus the water runs down to the garage door. We have a driveway drain like the one in this drawing.
It works well except there's constantly debris clogging it up. I have to be pretty cognizant of this or a big storm will cause water to backup into the garage...
Thanks I considered this, but just not sure how to make it make sense - 24000 downstairs alone is waaaay overkill, and this isn't really any less labor than just running a new line upstairs to the larger air handler. Plus the company is taking back my 24k system so I really can't ask for a...
I don't know man... the system has been checked and double checked and it's working fine, and the building was properly spray foam insulated... nothing I can do at this point but up the cooling system to a higher capacity.
It's a single garage door, and yes insulated... The downstairs part actually has no problem staying cool - but granted, I keep the temp set higher (78). There's no windows down there aside from what's on the garage door itself, I've been pretty happy with that aspect.
I think he might be saying that the total building is 36k btu? If you do the basic math of 25 sq ft / BTU, that's 30000 BTU for 12000 sq ft. So still high but not crazy (I realize that math is very rough and not a load calc).
Yeah I think you're right, and this is probably underrated... We really can't add a door at the top without doing some significant renovations. There's a half wall at the top of the stairs, so that would have to be closed off, which would block a window... would take a lot of thought and work...
It's an enclosed space, except that the staircase coming up into the room is an open stairway. I.e. the room has 8' ceilings, but the staircase has a ~16' ceiling or something, the width of the stairs. So that's probably not helping.
Lots of comments about the insulation being inadequate...
Thanks I'll look into those options. We do have a large section of flat / membrane roof, could I basically paint that elastomeric stuff on top of it? It's black now, so I imagine that could help a lot.
Yeah I'm reluctant as well... but also 12000 BTU just doesn't seem like enough. When I talked...
We're in NC - usually 2 - 3 months of consistent highs in the 90's, with 'real feel' temps in the 100's. Lots of sun exposure. Ceilings are 8'3" at max, but it's dormer'd so there are lower areas.
Building is spray-foam insulated, professionally done.
It's basically on the hot days, but that's...
We built a detached garage a couple years ago, and had the second floor as an in law suite which we recently finished off to make it livable. As part of that, we had a dual-zone mini split installed, with one head in the garage itself, and the second upstairs for the living area. It's a...