Recent content by DonnyT

Just make sure you use type L or type K copper. M= light duty L= medium duty (yes L, no type o) K= heavy duty

Prices start at almost 10,000.

Yeah really. Talk to Gabe, your issues will be solved quickly.

You can tap the nails back in leaving a small dimple in the drywall and then screw in a drywall screw catching the head of the nail so it will NOT pop out again. Once you have done this you can patch with joint compound. No need to take out the nail.

I think this will be easier in the long run. Drywall is cheap enough and you will be very will the end result.

That heater sure doesn't look to be sealed. I personally do not like heaters of this kind for the garage. I think it could be hazardous with gasoline and/or any other combustible item in the garage. Just saying....

WOW!!! Thanks so much!!!

OK guys for the not so technically advanced (me) how exactly does this work?? LOL. The old IPhone is just simply on with the camera pointing in the direction you want??? Yes I know its charging. How do you connect to the old IPhone??

Yep, thank you.

My new Miller mig (auto set 140) has only 2 settings for the autoset feature, 1 for .24 wire and 1 for .30 wire. Could I use the autoset feature using the .023 wire ??? The machine did not come with .24 tips. Just curious if .23/.24 is that much of a difference between the two?? Thx!!

X2. I would use 5/8 type X sheetrock (firecode). Why put wood up on the walls in a garage ? You could install aluminum diamond plate (over sheetrock) 3' up from the floor. Looks great too.

You did very good!! Its a great lift. You just need to decide which anchors to use (epoxy or not).

Guys thank you very much for the info. Brian, great link!!! Thx

I think you missed the thread where I mentioned the size of the door. I'm not looking to waste anyone's time. 12' radius, 8' ceiling. Thanks for your reply.

Oh man, I do not want any headaches with this LM 8500. Now what??? :scared: