Recent content by doughpat

Bought a bunch of those cheapo Feit 2-tube LED strip lights-- sort of look like an old school fluorescent. Man they are terrible. 1/3 of them have an awful high speed flicker. I'm sure for many it's fine, but it drives me batty. Anyone have any solid recommendations for a similar product...

Oh gosh, yes I did, and I didn't even catch it on second glance. Ooof! It sounds like this strapping should be fine, but that I should use "structural screws" instead of ring-shanked nails.

Hi @billconner - Hopefully I'm not way off base with this. The boards I bought (1 x4) have an actual dimension of 3/4" x 3 1/2". They are just a "common board" from Home Depot...I believe pine (?). Nothing fancy. Haven't installed any of it yet. Is that too thin?

Very happy with how things are going. Definitely went a little nuts with lighting and overhead power circuits but I think down the road I'll be glad I did. Ab out 80% done with foam board. Time to start thinking about strapping. I've bought a bunch of 12' 1x4's (actual dim 1.75 x 3.5)...

R-70, yessir, that'll do it! :) I'm making good progress. Drilled every eave block 3, 2.5" holes per block. 3" rectangle of polyiso on top of the wall plate, leaving about 1-2" of space between the polyiso and the holes in the bird block. Baffles up against the polyiso. R-19 Fiberglass...

These are both excellent replies. I will aim for somewhere between 1/150-1/300. I do plan to tape the continuous foam board. I will also mud/tape the drywall. Hopefully the air sealing/vapor barrier formed by these will be pretty good.

I had read something about the high/low balance, but honestly kind of glossed over that part because I wanted to learn towards having "too much". But you've got me thinking about it. There is a ridge vent running the whole length of the space. I had not included that in the calculation. I...

So there isn't much room between the top plate and the bird block. Not really any appreciable "overhang" before the bird block, in other words. This is my solution -- basically a chunk of leftover foam board (3" thick in this case). I cut it to leave about 2" above it, for air flow. Its held...

Gotcha. Yeah I have decided to not insulate to the roofline. Mainly because it's just "more volume" (especially height) to try and keep warm. Plus it'd be a big pain to work up in the trusses, hah!

Yes - I was wondering about this as well. Not sure why you'd need (or want to) run the baffles all the way. It seems like you'd get more even air movement if you just put a single baffle to get the air up "past" the insulation. Plus, at least in my installation (and many that I have...

Ok I'm underway - haven't yet 100% decided on the actual insulation used between bottom chords, but: - I drilled the bird blocks out. I did (3) 2.5" holes every-other bird block. Down the road if I decide it's not enough ventilation, I could always drill more. @thammel: I'm curious what...

Alrighty everyone - my revised plan (see picture). Mostly "thinking outloud" here. Before beginning the actual insulation: -Drill a boat-load of holes in the bird blocks along each side of the garage. Likely do this with a hole saw. Done this before, it ***** (rough on the wrists!). Was...

Sounds like a great plan. I was out there looking at it and thought of the same thing (screwing polyiso to bottom of rafters. Only tricky part is where the diagonal members reach up to join...not exactly sure how to get "around" those areas. And as you mentioned the eaves, but I suppose just...

Understood. Wouldn't be "too bad". I would think the hardest part would be "keeping track of" where the bottom chord is when fastening the drywall. The more I read about polyiso...tempted to just throw 4.5" polyiso on the underside of the bottom chord and be done...sounds like its a total...

An interesting idea, and honestly I haven't really looked into that mostly because I'm not sure how to do do it while still maintaining air flow to prevent ice dams, overly-hot shingles etc. I suppose some research is due here. I'm assuming I'd just mark on board before I install the polyiso...