Recent content by Drinkin-N-Thinkin

My next step is prepping for insulation. Another widely discussed topic on GJ (and the internet) is "How to properly insulate a pole barn". The [main] issue I think everyone is confronted with is condensation. A metal pole barn will sweat like a cold beer can on a hot summer day when the...

Those are just some patio lights I put up so I could have some temporary light.

Well, after making a spread sheet of all the components and adding up the weight I decided to go with 2X6's 24" on center; 2X4's aren't strong enough for that span (I was more worried about the weight). After adding all the estimated weights for everything up, I'm running about 4.4 pounds per...

Hmm...I was imagining the "outriggers" were actually the posts, but in metal. I'm not sure what purpose those were intended to serve or problem they are to prevent, but they would certainly tie the building to the posts preventing the slab from floating as the ground heaves. If it were me, I...

I agree with Northstar--I'm doing something similar, but resigned myself to doing it in stages to get what I want. Check out my build (link at bottom).

You're right, but without the floor in, I dared not get on a ladder 14 feet up on unstable dirt so waited until the concrete was in to start. I have started framing the ceiling and [so far] have decided to install 2X4's 24" on center between the 9' truss spans. The reason I picked 2X4's and 24"...

Was late in posting some pics, but didn't take a pic of as far as I got on the next step (just snapped the scaffold). Next step is to frame in the ceiling to prepare for lighting, finishing and insulating it. "My" building season is typically spring and fall; was pretty hot up there so only...

With an avatar like yours, I will most certainly take that as a complement. :rocker:

Clean up One more for the finished well site. Hand dug the gravel around the perimeter to add a second layer of 2" foam from the bottom of the grade board to the bottom of the inside layer of foam. The scaffold to start framing the ceiling. Finished grade. Left over gravel will be spread around...

Concrete Wasn't around for the the remainder of the work, but think my concrete/plumber guys did a very nice job. The apron has a nice 1 1/2 inch slope, the trench drain has a nice 1 1/2 slope (that wet 4X4 is sagging under it's weight) and all the tounge-and-groove foam (Foamular 250) is 16"...

Trenching Day Trenching 6' down, 100 feet from the building to the well. The yard hydrant. Insulating and backfilling the trench. The pitless adapter and curb stop installed. Installing the "In-Well-no tank" system.

Lot's of planning this year, in summary here are the results: 1) Well drilled, trenched (insulated) into workstop. Pressure tank system all under ground for freeze protection complete with curb stop. 2) Yard hydrant placed inline. 3) Drain field, trench drain (insulated), sink drain, water...

The reason for a floating slab is so the weight of the building isn't pushing down on the perimeter of a flat slab which will create a crack in the middle. If you have metal posts that go through the concrete say 4 feet down, the weight of the building will transfer the building weight to the...

I'd say 4.5-5". The stone is there to provide a solid base and provide a buffer area between the ground and the bottom of the slab to reduce the capillary action of moisture traveling up into your concrete. Also, you don't want water getting under your slab then freezing, it can expand and...

My 36X54 was set at 4", too. Get a bobcat in there, dig it out and do it right--you'll be happy you did. I think your going to want the 2" foam. I agree with "HIGHBEAM" and I went with 25PSI foam over the 15 (2160 lbs per square foot vs. 3600). In a building that big, you may want it. If you...