Recent content by dugger10

Thats my plan if I cant get this figuired out. Were at the house right now but planning a trip in a couple weeks. Just check it again, cool air after reaching prper temp in the camper, fan still running, removed the fuse to shut it down. I have no ideal how to determine if its the thermostat...

No I think the battery will run the fan,think about dry camping. No way the battery could run the AC, too much load. The battery runs the fan motor for the heat and the lights. If I remeber right the fan would really slow down when I unplugged the electric cord, due to low battery. And now...

Yeah its central heat, should have mention that but I didn't think about a fuse to reset. I did turn off all the breakers but the fan still ran. Also took the battery loose and still the fan ran, funny. I'll look for a fuse, somewhere. Thanks for the advice

I know this is a shop forum but I figuired someone might could help me. During the extremely cold weather we were having I turned the heater on in my 36 ft. camper just to keep things from freezing in case we had some water in the lines after a recent trip. Was called to work and didn't get...

Unless your being inspected and local codes say otherwise I would dig a 3 ft deep trench and use seprate conduict for water, electric and tv spaced about 5-6 inches apart. Put electric or water on bottom and tv on top. But thats just my opinion, let the code junkie's chime on in and quote if...

As far as needing two meters that depends on the load your gong to pull. Most likley you won't need and your really don't want the larger meters. Loads exceeding 200 amps generally need whats know as a Demand meter and the bills are ussually higher, sometimes much higher. They determine the...

bdog, folks can argue code all day and all night. I've been with a power company for thity years and have done electrical work on the side as a licend (SP) electrician for several years when my kids were young. Bottom line IMHO is this, what you have is working fine, if it makes you fell...

bdog here's my opinion, others might disagree but thats life, What you have will work just fine, most likely you won't have any computers of sensitive equipment in your garage that you really need protected by a completely isolated ground. I probably would not worry about driving a ground rod...

I have the rolls of firbeglass with the plastic backed as mention above and also keep a roll of tape to repair tears. It looks good enough, I thought about the spray in type and actually went and looked at one. I think the spray in will seal the building better and it can be painted, this...

Your right it's all about the money. Seems like everything is about the money, I thought goverment worked for us, that our taxes worked for us. I wonder why in any national election only about 10% of the population votes. Is all this our goverments fault or ours? Great topic for disscussion...

Great topic, here's my 2 cents for what its worth. WE do need codes within reason. Whether its electrical or whatever but do permits really need to caost so much, can't a DYI homeowner do his own work as long as it meet codes? Case in point, I needed to build a shop at my lasy house. Problem...

I vote and use fluke too, I like the clamp on type, alittle more expensive but really nice to clamp the meter on something and use both hands to work the leads. Also get the ability to measure current(amps). Will generally get a continuity meter which is very usefull too. Spend a bit more and...

Guess we'll have to agree to dissagree on some issues mrb. Good luck with the biuld SRL6RAM.

mrb: Certinaly a 4 wire service would be code and better. I happen to work for a large poco's and have for 30 years. Also was a liscens electrician for several years as well. Most overhead service serving all electric homes are 2/3 al. conductors, we can get away with this because its overhead...

#10 gauge copper wire with a 30 amp breaker, problem solved. Done this many times for people.