Recent content by eejack

It probably is not worth the gas to pull it out even if the conduit is intact. Aluminum doesn't fetch much.

As much as I hate the expression... Better to be looking at it than looking for it.

Just for completeness. Firefox, uBlock Origin and Adblock Plus = zero ads.

Alternatively, if the top is sturdy enough, one might run a threaded rod down from the top to the midspan of the 2x4 between the tool boxes. A suspension instead of a leg as it were. Might actually be able to do this with unistrut instead...

It might just be easier to empty the room and pull up the floor. Can't imagine after all the flexing the floor will still be sound and end up flat.

I have two of these, one someone destroyed the magnets and I am using the vials from it to restore one with bad vials and a missing thumb screw. However, it is, for me at least, the best conduit bending level I have ever used and I have a bit to go before I retire... This is a site with some...

I use unistrut on a regular basis and never considered one of those sockets. 1/2" hardware is too much for strut. No wiggle room. 3/8" anchors, whether hollow wall or drop in or thunderbolts, work just fine. If I am using 1/4-20 hardware I use 1/4" x 1" fender washers so I can go in through...

I use deep 9/16" sockets, assuming you are using 3/8" anchors. Any heavier of an anchor is overkill. Pretty sure they are old craftsman sockets ( old meaning 20-30 years ).

Because they likely already have those in their panels ( or going to add 'just one more thing' to a circuit ). I'm not an auto mechanic, to me, oil is oil. To joey homeowner, wire is wire - especially given the advice they are getting from your typical big box store drone.

It really isn't a lot in savings, plus having to find 10A breakers ( and stock them ). The good part is joey homeowner will buy the cheaper wire and burn down their house with some regularity ( because we all know people are stupid, cheap and arrogant ), which will in turn increase all of our...

Never, but I have only been doing electric for 40 years ( mostly in the US but some overseas facilities work ).

Since it is unlikely it was an overload ( 60A breaker should have tripped in that case ) it seems likely a loose connection caused overheating ( which causes loose connections.... ). Perhaps loose bits in the disconnect, possibly loose wire terminations. Summertime load and heat doesn't help...

Out of curiousity, is the disconnect rated for the load? How many amps is the system capable of putting out vs. how many amps can the disconnect handle. Obviously the disconnect is toast.

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and guess you are technically correct, you meet electrical code in this instance and building code for whatever reason does not apply to you. I suspect upon 'winning' that point you will get the single most picky final inspection ever.

I would think it is likely the switch itself just failed. An outside event could have something to do with it but there would be evidence elsewhere ( electronics acting oddly or not functioning ). The load on the feed might have overheated the screw terminal if the wire was damaged at that...