Recent content by Farm Hand

Yeah I really like simplicity in any design especially in things I build, and as you mentioned the cost savings when you employ some one else to do the job. I do have a slight slope to put my slab on so the narrower foot print will mean less fill, among other things by not doing the clerestorys...

I like the idea of a light weight simple fabric panel to achieve the"clean" ceiling look I would prefer. Much more efficient than plywood for that purpose. But I was concerned if I use the Simple Saver with the batt insulation and no ply wood deck my roof might not be that suited to walk on...

ReadHead , Do the sleepers run perpendicular to the purlins? Can you coment on the walkability of metal roofs in general for maintainance and stuff. I see you said a flat seam roof would be walkabel at what purlin spacing. Since I have never been up on one it seems there would some serious...

Any body know If I can do this type of roof for a steel building. Any advice , thoughts, comments, greatly appreciated, Thanks, This is for a no snow area where the local codes allow low pitched roofs. My question is, I would like to build a 60 x 60 buiulding with a 1/2 : 12 roof slope. I...

Obviously there is a lot to think about when buying real estate, here are a few of things I would comment on based on my experience. This does not have to apply at all it depends on the purchaser and their overall situation. Real estate has the ability to be a very, very good investment with...

But what would you normally see on an end wall, an X in half of the frame?

Informative ReadHead thankyou, In reference to that X bracing situation you mentioned to go with non portal frames, in a 40 x 80 with straight columns, non expandable end frames is it correct that one bay on each long side will need an x brace? And then for the end frames does each one require...

Is there any calk or seal usually done between the exterior sheet and the J channel? and on the sides of the window do you have to watch for where the window occurs in relation to the raised ridges in the wall panel when laying out the building?

On a 40 x 80 what would the cross section size of the frame be 6" square? , and you said the girts ar 8" deep? When designing a building like this what are the key component material sizes you design for. Or does it not matter, for example if the exterior panels are 3' wide would you keep...

I was just thinking to cut cost, but at the same width they would extra support to the outer skin.

Could the extra girts be narrower, maybe with some verticals to prevent sag? Thanks for that opinion LX.

Thanks for that window info Red. I do want light and ventilation so I am thinking of going with units of like, 30" tall awning windows up high and I will get them pre joined so I will have window units like 30" x 12' that I would attach to the metal window opening framing as you mentioned.

I see, so. What is the right screw for this job and can it be done with 1/2" of do you need 5/8" dry wall?

Thanks for the reply Rock knocker, Yeah I thought that would be the case I have done enough work to see that possible issue. So Since no one is replying to my window thread any one want to chime in on using regular windows from one of the big window makers here in the US on a steel building...

Thanks, got it. One thing I guess you might know. I am assuming the girts are a lot thicker than metal dry wall studs. And I could see how setting the screws to hold a "soft" 1/2" dry wall panel might be problematic as the increased torque to pull the screws in might make it difficult to control...